New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

[nepats197]

I don't remember which version allowed OutDoor Bell to be turned On/Off, but think that was the main change. If you don't need this I would stay with your current firmware. If you try the new firmware, you could always go back, I attached 191211 for you.

@silencery Here is a good reason to keep old firmwares.

I already have this option with 191211. So I guess 200904 adds something else. The question is, what? Figure I'll stick with 191211 for now.

 

[DaLas]

I set it up with Guarding Vision. I have this fully functional using a packet capture daemon (modified version of a port knocking script) that uses the VirtualButtons Alexa skill to trigger a custom routine for each of my doorbells. This gives a nearly instantaneous triggering of the Alexa routine. I am now hooking this into Monacle so I can pull up the appropriate camera on the Echo when the button is pressed. More information to come when I finish the project...

Did you already manage to finish the project, or can you share some technical details? I would love to see how you build it, so I can try to adapt it for my HomeAssistant setup.

 

[BeerNut]

So I replaced my fried doorbell with a Heath Zenith SL-2796 and it won't chime. I remove the powerkit and the the doorbell chime goes crazy. I'm using a Edwards Signaling 598 120V 8/16/24V 30W Transformer set to 16v. Any thoughts on what I should look for or a chime that just works without too much troubleshooting? I'm trying to minimize the time time on a ladder as the chime is in a difficult spot.

 

[David L]

So I replaced my fried doorbell with a Heath Zenith SL-2796 and it won't chime. I remove the powerkit and the the doorbell chime goes crazy. I'm using a Edwards Signaling 598 120V 8/16/24V 30W Transformer set to 16v. Any thoughts on what I should look for or a chime that just works without too much troubleshooting? I'm trying to minimize the time time on a ladder as the chime is in a difficult spot.

Hey BeerNut, Long Time No Chime, my new saying ...So do you know what fried your Chime? Normally you can just short your wires at the doorbell button to test your chime. JUST MAKE SURE it is a Short SHORT, meaning, only touch the wires together for a second, just to hear your chime. A traditional doorbell button does this exact same thing. You do not want to hold a doorbell button down too long otherwise it can burn out your transformer. Let us know if your new Chime works and we can take you to the next troubleshooting step.

 

[David L]

Easiest way to install the firmware. I think I put it on th SD card?

Personally I would use Batch Config. Tool.

View attachment 76600

But only thing I am thinking is your Doorbell is registered on the Cloud. I remember Pete saying he bought a used DB and since it was already pre-registered he could not setup. Wonder what is the best way to do this? Worse case you give the new owners your Cloud account, you could give it a new password. Hopefully others will Chime in.

So @flynreelow I checked with Pete and he said: Bought a RCA Hikvision, it was sold as a new open box. I tried to register it and was told it was already registered. I sent it back to seller on Ebay and got a refund.

My thought is like a locked cell phone, unless it is unlocked, it is no good to the new owner. I know we unregister when we switch Apps, or at least remove the device in the App. Hope that the device is removed from the cloud, because the times I have done so I used the same logon info on the new App.
Not trying to confuse this, but to continue my thought, if it were me, I would do like you stated, get the original firmware back on the DB, then I would change the login info name/password to something generic DBUser/123456 and include it in the box with the DB for sale. The new owner can change it to whatever they want this way.

I tend to over think things, and maybe a hard reset is all that is needed but I am weary of clouds that keep the scan codes and serial # info possibly making it harder for resell.



EDIT: So I just chatted with Nelly's support:


Question; I would like to sell my DB2 Doorbell, I will be moving, what do I need to do, unregister in App and do a Reset on the Doorbell so the new home owners can use it?

Kyle
Sales / Tech Support
joined

Hey David

Hi

Correct, if you remove it from your Guarding Vision account, thats all that needs to be done. So the next owner can add it to their account.

ok so no reset on the doorbell?

You can press and hold that small white button. However upon the setup, the next owner will have to do that anyway

just thinking of the wifi settings
ok great, thanks

no problem!

appreciate your help, have a good day

Youre very welcome David, and you as well!


So @flynreelow let us know if unregistering and resetting is all that needs to be done. I have a family member moving soon and they will be leaving their LaView DB for the new owners so they will need to do the same.

Thanks,
David

 

[BeerNut]

@David L Not having the power kit installed caused the plunger to lockup from constant hum/chattering. I'll try testing the doorbell with the wire short method when I get home.

 

[David L]

Just wanted to share what I found/read on other Threads here. This Sensor looks like it can have many uses...
Thanks @tommyd75 & @planetix


Added to our 101:
OTHER HARDWARE TO CONSIDER:
⦁ Current Sensing Switch (SZC23-NO-AL-CH Model) - tommyd75, tommyd75, tommyd75 - planetix - Konnected Alarm Forum

 

[TechBill]

Just wanted to share what I found/read on other Threads here. This Sensor looks like it can have many uses...
Thanks @tommyd75 & @planetix


Added to our 101:
OTHER HARDWARE TO CONSIDER:
⦁ Current Sensing Switch (SZC23-NO-AL-CH Model) - tommyd75, tommyd75, tommyd75 - planetix - Konnected Alarm Forum

View attachment 77430

View attachment 77437
View attachment 77439

May I ask why you want your alarm panel to know when the doorbell button is pressed or are you using Konnected to send a event to a hub?

Thanks for sharing your setup.

 

[David L]

May I ask why you want your alarm panel to know when the doorbell button is pressed or are you using Konnected to send a event to a hub?

Thanks for sharing your setup.

Yes, Konnected works with SmartThings, Hubitat, Home Assistant or openHAB, so any alarm trips get sent to those Hubs. Here is my thought, many here want to capture their Doorbell Button Press, the Sage Sensor (Zigbee) is a good option, BUT it requires a Zigbee Hub which is not a problem but your Chime (where most people install it) needs to be in range. Also the Sage has a battery (I am not a fan of battery operated devices). This sensor does not have a battery, it uses the power from the Doorbell/Transformer. What is great, and which could work in your home environment, I will take SmartThings for instance, when your Doorbell button is pressed you can have SmartThings turn on certain lights, or have them flash, or have them turn a certain color, it does not have to trigger your Siren. Presently if you trip my alarm all my Smart Lights turn Red. This, of course, can also be done with the Sage Sensor or others like it but now I am leaning towards this circuit sensor. This sensor is really for those who have a Smart Alarm System or a way to monitor a NO/NC contact.

This is not my setup, presently, I am just sharing what I found here on the Forum in another Thread.

How I use Konnected with SmartThings:
My wife's and my phone are setup in SmartThings to where if both of us leave, our Alarm System Automatically Arms, when we return it Auto Unarms. So as we get older and more forgetful we do not need to worry if we Armed our Alarm or not.

 

[phatboyj]

Yes, Konnected works with SmartThings, Hubitat, Home Assistant or openHAB, so any alarm trips get sent to those Hubs. Here is my thought, many here want to capture their Doorbell Button Press, the Sage Sensor (Zigbee) is a good option, BUT it requires a Zigbee Hub which is not a problem but your Chime (where most people install it) needs to be in range. Also the Sage has a battery (I am not a fan of battery operated devices). This sensor does not have a battery, it uses the power from the Doorbell/Transformer. What is great, and which could work in your home environment, I will take SmartThings for instance, when your Doorbell button is pressed you can have SmartThings turn on certain lights, or have them flash, or have them turn a certain color, it does not have to trigger your Siren. Presently if you trip my alarm all my Smart Lights turn Red. This, of course, can also be done with the Sage Sensor or others like it but now I am leaning towards this circuit sensor. This sensor is really for those who have a Smart Alarm System or a way to monitor a NO/NC contact.

This is not my setup, presently, I am just sharing what I found here on the Forum in another Thread.

How I use Konnected with SmartThings:
My wife's and my phone are setup in SmartThings to where if both of us leave, our Alarm System Automatically Arms, when we return it Auto Unarms. So as we get older and more forgetful we do not need to worry if we Armed our Alarm or not.

@David L

1'st
Merry -Xmas

2'nd
Having only Smart things, and no sort of wired alarm system, is there a cost effective way, I too could use the sensor being discussed?

I also like the idea of it not requiring batteries, but how would I get the signal to Smart Things given no alarm system therefore no konnected, Ideas?

Would one of the Shelly's devices @alexdelprete uses suffice for my needs?

 

[pete_c]

Here have had the doorbell connected to the alarm panel (Leviton HAI OmniPro 2 for some 20 plus years now using the following circuit).

I have utilized the doorbell, hard wired Optex wired PIR and a wired geophone sensor buried under the front walk to trigger automations for many many years now.

Purchasing the Hikvision wireless doorbell is my first wireless camera endeavor as I have always used wired camera. (IE: still use my Optex cameras).



The trigger from the zone or PIR at the front door triggered recordings on 3 cameras that faced the front door / front of the house. Over the years with software automation integrated to the alarm panel contacts used Microsoft SAPI speech and today using Alexa speech to announce the doorbell ring.

The above circuit worked fine with the Ring Doorbell but only sometimes worked with the Hikvision doorbell.

I removed the doorbell circuit board leaving the debounce board in place and put a magnetic sensor in the doorbell chime which triggers the alarm zone.

I would rather use the above hardware current sensor to trigger the alarm zone so purchased one this afternoon.

Merry Christmas all IPCam forum users.

 

[David L]

@David L

1'st
Merry -Xmas

2'nd
Having only Smart things, and no sort of wired alarm system, is there a cost effective way, I too could use the sensor being discussed?

I also like the idea of it not requiring batteries, but how would I get the signal to Smart Things given no alarm system therefore no konnected, Ideas?

Would one of the Shelly's devices @alexdelprete uses suffice for my needs?

Merry Christmas to you and your family too.

I found this:

Amazon.com: FIBARO Smart Implant Z-Wave Plus Plugin Universal DIY Tool, FGBS-222, doesn't work with HomeKit: Home Improvement

Buy FIBARO Smart Implant Z-Wave Plus Plugin Universal DIY Tool, FGBS-222, doesn't work with HomeKit: Automotive - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I don't know anything about it other than it can communicate via Z-Wave to SmartThings.

 

[phatboyj]

Merry Christmas to you and your family too.

I found this:

Amazon.com: FIBARO Smart Implant Z-Wave Plus Plugin Universal DIY Tool, FGBS-222, doesn't work with HomeKit: Home Improvement

Buy FIBARO Smart Implant Z-Wave Plus Plugin Universal DIY Tool, FGBS-222, doesn't work with HomeKit: Automotive - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I don't know anything about it other than it can communicate via Z-Wave to SmartThings.

Thanks for understanding my question, in its entirety, and great find.

So in theory, one would simply wire up the current sensor and then feed the wired signal from it to the Fibaro device, which should inturn allow for the setting of Smart Things routines, Correct?

And Yes,

MERRY Christmas to all of the forum and their families.

Thanks again, @ David L

 

[David L]

Thanks for understanding my question, in its entirety, and great find.

So in theory, one would simply wire up the current sensor and then feed the wired signal from it to the Fibaro device, which should inturn allow for the setting of Smart Things routines, Correct?

And Yes,

MERRY Christmas to all of the forum and their families.

Thanks again, @ David L

Correct

You may want to read through this first, reading their may be a problem now with SmartThings new App (Sort newest first):

Fibaro Smart Implant

Is there anyone who have a DH for Smart Implant?

community.smartthings.com

 

[phatboyj]

Correct

You may want to read through this first, reading their may be a problem now with SmartThings new App (Sort newest first):

Fibaro Smart Implant

Is there anyone who have a DH for Smart Implant?

community.smartthings.com

@David L

So I did read up on the forum post you provided, and because of the lack of a DH for the New ST app one guy suggests using this instead
Zooz Z-Wave Plus S2 MultiRelay ZEN16
but he is using it with contact sensor "not sure of the difference or if it matters"

So if you have a chance to look this over for me, I would be glad to hear your opinion as to wether you think this might work for my needs.
Keep in mind I'm wanting to use the Binary Current sensor, but do not have any sort of alarm system or konnected, but only Smart Things Google & Alexa

From what I can figure I would simply wire the Binary Current Sensor into the Switch 1 input and that would be it, in other words, there shouldn't need to be anything wired on the remote side of the relay, Correct?

Also, If I'm on the right page with the above question,
Should I be able to Power, this MultiRelay, from my DB Transformer? The description states in addition to type C 5V, 12-24 V AC/DC for power options but makes no mention of amperage requirements.

 

[David L]

@David L

So I did read up on the forum post you provided, and because of the lack of a DH for the New ST app one guy suggests using this instead
Zooz Z-Wave Plus S2 MultiRelay ZEN16
but he is using it with contact sensor "not sure of the difference or if it matters"

So if you have a chance to look this over for me, I would be glad to hear your opinion as to wether you think this might work for my needs.
Keep in mind I'm wanting to use the Binary Current sensor, but do not have any sort of alarm system or konnected, but only Smart Things Google & Alexa

From what I can figure I would simply wire the Binary Current Sensor into the Switch 1 input and that would be it, in other words, there shouldn't need to be anything wired on the remote side of the relay, Correct?

Also, If I'm on the right page with the above question,
Should I be able to Power, this MultiRelay, from my DB Transformer? The description states in addition to type C 5V, 12-24 V AC/DC for power options but makes no mention of amperage requirements.

Wow Great find...I did not get a chance to go through the SmartThings Forum/Thread. So, if you don't mind, give me a day or so, with the Holidays taking up these next few days for me, and I will look more deeply into this.

I did see this in a review so it looks like it should work with the FIBARO.

 

[David L]

So looks like power can be either from the USB-C connection to a Brick Transformer or the Red/Black Terminals.



I am liking this more and more I read about it, but the wife just called me , CYA after Christmas

 

[David L]

@David L

So I did read up on the forum post you provided, and because of the lack of a DH for the New ST app one guy suggests using this instead
Zooz Z-Wave Plus S2 MultiRelay ZEN16
but he is using it with contact sensor "not sure of the difference or if it matters"

So if you have a chance to look this over for me, I would be glad to hear your opinion as to wether you think this might work for my needs.
Keep in mind I'm wanting to use the Binary Current sensor, but do not have any sort of alarm system or konnected, but only Smart Things Google & Alexa

From what I can figure I would simply wire the Binary Current Sensor into the Switch 1 input and that would be it, in other words, there shouldn't need to be anything wired on the remote side of the relay, Correct?

Also, If I'm on the right page with the above question,
Should I be able to Power, this MultiRelay, from my DB Transformer? The description states in addition to type C 5V, 12-24 V AC/DC for power options but makes no mention of amperage requirements.

So I added this in the 101:

OTHER HARDWARE TO CONSIDER:
⦁ Current Sensing Switch Z-Wave Plus (SZC23-NO-AL-CH Model) - tommyd75, tommyd75, tommyd75 - planetix - Konnected Alarm Forum
⦁ In Addition to the above Current Sensor Switch and for those without a Smart Alarm System like Konnected - Zooz Z-Wave Plus S2 MultiRelay (ZEN16) - phatboyj

If you end up adding this to your setup, please consider either a new post or edit your existing post with any additional install instructions as well as a review on how well it works. Oh BTW Great FInd!!!

Thanks

 

[phatboyj]

I am liking this more and more I read about it, but the wife just called me , CYA after Christmas

Sounds good Happy Holidays

 

[vhearts]

hi everyone,

I have a EZVIZ DB1 already installed and just picked up a EZVIZ DB1C. They both come with a power kit in the package and I already have the one from the DB1 installed in my mechanical chime. Do I still need to install the second power kit? How would I wire that in?