These are generally my night settings when I don't have any lights nearby. Can you advise or do I need to upload a video?
Teaser Info and Mini Review - Empiretech B52IR-X3 Triple Lens Camera
- Thread starter Ri22o
- Start date
bigredfish
Known around here
Generally speaking that’s motion blur waiting to happen. Video really is the only way to know.
I would increase exposure speed to 0-8 and knock DNR down a bit say 43 and then see how it looks with movement
I would increase exposure speed to 0-8 and knock DNR down a bit say 43 and then see how it looks with movement
I turned down exposure, but screen gets pixelated/fuzzy when I turn DNR below 50.
bigredfish
Known around here
@EMPIRETECANDY , I understand that you can move all 3 lenses up and down at the same time.
It would be nice to individually move all 3 lenses and aim them separately at different height.
Is this because of the physical restrictions or software restriction?
@wittaj , I know I already asked you this via DM, but I just want to clarify/confirm this with Andy.
Thanks
It would be nice to individually move all 3 lenses and aim them separately at different height.
Is this because of the physical restrictions or software restriction?
@wittaj , I know I already asked you this via DM, but I just want to clarify/confirm this with Andy.
Thanks
It's physical. All 3 lenses are physically connected. When using the built in mechanical adjustment, you are tilting the entire block of cameras/lenses.@EMPIRETECANDY , I understand that you can move all 3 lenses up and down at the same time.
It would be nice to individually move all 3 lenses and aim them separately at different height.
Is this because of the physical restrictions or software restriction?
@wittaj , I know I already asked you this via DM, but I just want to clarify/confirm this with Andy.
Thanks
In addition to this, since only one lens contains the IVS mapping, the three lenses need to maintain the same relation.
It's still been cold here, so not many people walking by at night and I can't be bothered to go out there myself and walk around.
Here is before applying @wittaj's changes:
My settings:
After changing out the settings to what wittaj posted. Same image settings as above, but 1/1000 exposure, 50 gain, 50/50 NR. I realize he is going the wrong way, but it is what it is.
Which is better? Slower exposure and lower gain or faster exposure and higher gain?
Here is before applying @wittaj's changes:
My settings:
After changing out the settings to what wittaj posted. Same image settings as above, but 1/1000 exposure, 50 gain, 50/50 NR. I realize he is going the wrong way, but it is what it is.
Which is better? Slower exposure and lower gain or faster exposure and higher gain?
The camera IR have some block at the top of the car make the IR blocked on the top, make the distant bit dark.
Only adjust it at the same time, can't do diy to each lens, this is hardware limit.@EMPIRETECANDY , I understand that you can move all 3 lenses up and down at the same time.
It would be nice to individually move all 3 lenses and aim them separately at different height.
Is this because of the physical restrictions or software restriction?
@wittaj , I know I already asked you this via DM, but I just want to clarify/confirm this with Andy.
Thanks
bigredfish
Known around here
Which is better? Slower exposure and lower gain or faster exposure and higher gain?
As it seems everything with these cameras, it is a balance.
There is a point that a higher gain completely wipes out the benefit of the faster shutter. One can make the gain high enough to essentially make a 1/120 shutter look/emulate what a 1/12 shutter looks like.
While that above image isn't perfect, it tells a lot. It first demonstrates the IR light cannon this is since I don't think you have many cameras pointing that way to supplement IR?
The image isn't giving the tell-tale signs of too high gain and ghosting. A fair amount of noise though.
I think your primary goal on this camera is a person, so I would try a fixed 1/250 shutter with 50 gain. Gamma at 46. NR at 42
As pointed out, what it is with motion is what counts. I have one camera that is pixelated mess until motion and then it clears up. I think the reflective properties of the object must provide enough IR return to the camera that it then perceives it to be enough light and the dancing pixels go away.
You can knock some of the pixelation out with turning down sharpness, but not too much.
In theory exposure comp only works on default settings for shutter, so I would suggest you move it back to the default 50
Correct, this is currently the only camera on the backside of the fence. I do plan to put another one of these on the other side of the gate to cross this FOV, so it may gain benefits from that IR cannon when I do that.
I'll mess with it a bit more, and actually get out there when the weather is more favorable.
Can someone help me dial in my settings please? I've included a couple videos below.
At night, just ghosting. But during the day its crisp and clean.
Night Settings:
You have to drop the NR down a lot. Start at like 25 and work up from there, but try not to go above about 42.
Consider a fixed shutter like 1/100 or 1/120
bigredfish
Known around here
^^^^
This
Plus at night it’s ALWAYS a matter of light. Either IR or white.
Add enough of either and problems tend to go away
This
Plus at night it’s ALWAYS a matter of light. Either IR or white.
Add enough of either and problems tend to go away
Would I drop down all three fields including: "Exposure compensation", "3D NR level", and "2D NR Level"? Once i start dropping it down below 50 the still image becomes so pixelated I cant see anything. But i guess you are saying once the IR light starts reflecting on the person it will clear up? I will play around with it tonight....
bigredfish
Known around here