flynreelow
Known around here
- Dec 12, 2016
- 1,353
- 1,238
if viewing the above video full screen on a large monitor its easier to see the jerky motion of the car. That said, I don't think its as bad as everyone makes it out to be... in fact for the purposes of a doorbell cam it works fine because movement isn't that fast (unless someone is running away with one of your packages) ... however... compared to images captured on my 30fps cameras its pretty obvious
Blue Iris shows this as 15-17 fps. I wish i had an example of the 5fps it was without the fw hack, it was so bad...
Power and data on same ethernet cable.I have been out of this thread since day one. That being said, I know this is a poe doorbell but has to use the included injector and not a regular poe switch.
Going this route does this pass power as well as data through the line, or does it still require wifi to connect to the doorbell?
Here, I found a example of this doorbell @ 5 fps without the fw hack.
I havent started playing with it through telnet yet... But it would be nice to set the time by using my self hosted ntp server. I use Blue Iris to cover the time stamp with the correct time and date but as you can see it doesnt apply it to exported videos. Other than that I am happy AF with this doorbell for <$70.00. I have it blocked from WAN and only use it with Blue Iris for video.Wow. What a night and day differece. Overall are you happy with this doorbell. Any issues remain?
I havent started playing with it through telnet yet... But it would be nice to set the time by using my self hosted ntp server. I use Blue Iris to cover the time stamp with the correct time and date but as you can see it doesnt apply it to exported videos. Other than that I am happy AF with this doorbell for <$70.00. I have it blocked from WAN and only use it with Blue Iris for video.
No, no audio. Thats why I said I use it for video only... and the actual doorbell button. Which I had to hack to get to work with the original wired chime that came with my home.this have audio as well? your first video I didnt hear you opening up the door, turning the key, etc.
Okay... Here's the deal... I don't use the Yoosee app. Back when I did, the video images looked great... that is until I would exit the app then videos took on the jerky appearance you see in the video I attached. NET: Per the Yousee specs the resolution is 1920x1080 5-15 fps . If I had to guess I'd say its probably closer to 5 fps than 15. Whatever the "actual" fps is I have no idea. No one else responded to your request so I gave it a shot. Sorry it wasn't a certified 15fps video sample.
No, no audio. Thats why I said I use it for video only... and the actual doorbell. Which I had to hack to get to work with the original wired chime that came with my home.
As it is now there is no way to use the audio with Blue Iris, but the way it sounded it is possible to modify the firmware to get it working. I personally dont capture audio on my system at all so it doesnt matter to me and I dont feel I have any need to comunicate over 2 way with someone at my door through the doorbell. But thats just me....I have successfully hacked the SD-M5 into working with my mechanical chime.
I found a connection on the USB chime that received power when the chime was triggered. I originally thought it wasn't getting a consistent 4.98v (5v DC) but it turns out that the signal is so fast my multi-meter was unable to read it reliably. So long story short I did not need the 5v step up I ordered. I ended up buying a 5v relay and 5v step up from a company called Pololu. I came to the conclusion their products were more reliable than the average Amazon Chinese stuff. @Elton Norway is NOT joking when he said soldering these tiny joints is complicated. I had to use my cell phone camera and zoom in to make sure I didn't have any solder creating a short between joints. I know my soldering looks like $#!%.... But it works. I guess now Im going to either 3D print a box with standoffs, or make one to hold the components. Then I'm going to hard wire the USB receiver and relay on the other side of the wall from my doorbell in the electrical box in the wall that the 16v transformer for the chime is mounted to. Here's some pics to better explain how I accomplished this. Yes the pics are big, sorry, not going to resize them, I think I did enough work on this already and I should get a hall pass. FYI the doorbell wires go in the relay slots for common and NO (normally open). The NC is for normally closed.
Link to 5v relay: Pololu Basic SPDT Relay Carrier with 5VDC Relay (Assembled)
1st pic: Left wire = PWR (VDD) / Right = GND
2nd pic: Trigger wire = EN
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