If anyone has purchased cat cables and planned on terminating themselves, especially with cat6 solid strand, check out these vids below. I couldn't figure out until this guy explained the wire guide correctly;
One trick is in how you fan out the pairs. Fold the orange and brown pairs to opposite sides, leave the green and blue sticking up. Untwist and straighten the green pair first and spreading the straightened wires wide on opposite sides of the blue pair. Then untwist / straighten the blue pair followed by the orange and brown pairs. I like to use a flush cutter to cut the wires and spline.I have that checker tool as well works good. I think this process is a pita no matter getting wires lined up. I used the ideal ones and now use the pass through which is in fact easier and allows a lot of insulation crimp every time
Klein Tools 6 in. Pass Thru Modular Crimper-VDV226-110 - The Home Depot
It is still a pita
that's what I use. I bought 10 bags last time. last 2 years.A little something I posted a few days ago on another thread ==>> here. I've been using Monoprice's 2-piece (Insert with lip and RJ-45 male) for my CAT-6 lately. Like anything, the first couple are not easy, but then you get the hang of it.
I have even better luck by using the non-serrated, flat part of my needle nosed pliers to gently flatten the wires, one at a time, in one plane then rotate the pliers 90 degrees and flatten in another plane. They then lay closer to each other, go into the insert easier, and allow the insert to get closer to the outer jacket, all the way up to where each pair's twist begins.
Sure, it takes longer but it insures I get the benefit of CAT-6 by keeping the pairs twisted as much as possible and no re-do's.
View attachment 28539
Commit to memory...
A little something I posted a few days ago on another thread ==>> here. I've been using Monoprice's 2-piece (Insert with lip and RJ-45 male) for my CAT-6 lately. Like anything, the first couple are not easy, but then you get the hang of it.
I have even better luck by using the non-serrated, flat part of my needle nosed pliers to gently flatten the wires, one at a time, in one plane then rotate the pliers 90 degrees and flatten in another plane. They then lay closer to each other, go into the insert easier, and allow the insert to get closer to the outer jacket, all the way up to where each pair's twist begins.
Sure, it takes longer but it insures I get the benefit of CAT-6 by keeping the pairs twisted as much as possible and no re-do's.
View attachment 28539
Once I insert the 8 wires through the load bar, I usually just use a pair of snips to flush cut the wires against the load bar and push the load bar directly into the connector and crimp into place. I find it better than the EZ connector.![]()
Thanks for the tip Arjun, I'll give it a try on the next one![]()
Its an unconventional way but it works. I specifically use a sharp pair of cable shears on the the wires (for achieving a flush cut as much as possible), sometimes it cuts part of the plastic material of the load pair, but never really matters, because the wires never go out of alignment thanks to the load bar.![]()
Both work obviously. Do you need cat-6? no. Cat-6 is a little tougher and harder for people to damage during install (but slower to terminate) and the slightly bigger wires can carry more current if you have a particularly power hungry camera.I'm kinda confused...
Why would you buy a cat6 cable for a cameras install, unless it's a part of the whole house re-wire project?
Cat5e is much more easier to handle and provides you with all the bandwidth x 100 a camera will ever need.
I'm kinda confused...
Why would you buy a cat6 cable for a cameras install, unless it's a part of the whole house re-wire project?
Cat5e is much more easier to handle and provides you with all the bandwidth x 100 a camera will ever need.