New DYI guy with new project

mat200

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@luisrodz

This is what I would be doing for the front of your new home, remember to test your locations before a final commitment.

recommended-coverage.png
 

luisrodz

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Can you post a picture showing what you have to work with for wire now that the house is finished?
If you had things prewired I'm a little confused why your asking for location advice now...

If you want to lower that camera you may have to use conduit and possibly even a coupler.
I understand what you mean. However, the placement of the wiring was decided prior to getting to this forum.

I’ll see how I can lower those cables through the walls... I really don’t want cable exposed




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mat200

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I understand what you mean. However, the placement of the wiring was decided prior to getting to this forum.

I’ll see how I can lower those cables through the walls... I really don’t want cable exposed




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Did you pull extra cat5e/6 cable to the door bell level?

( hint for those following, this is why I recommend N+1 cable pulls as often you find out later you could really use another cat6 line in a spot or 2 .. )
 

luisrodz

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Did you pull extra cat5e/6 cable to the door bell level?

( hint for those following, this is why I recommend N+1 cable pulls as often you find out later you could really use another cat6 line in a spot or 2 .. )
Fortunately, the doorbell has a Cat5e cable but was originally used for a regular chime doorbell. Maybe I can use that one, however what I’m going to do with the doorbell?


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tangent

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Did you run the wire yourself or did the builder do it?

That's a pretty short piece of wire sticking out there.
 

mat200

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Fortunately, the doorbell has a Cat5e cable but was originally used for a regular chime doorbell. Maybe I can use that one, however what I’m going to do with the doorbell?


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Hi Luisrodz,

Look for a IP POE intercomm / video which you may want to replace the doorbell with.
 

luisrodz

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Did you run the wire yourself or did the builder do it?

That's a pretty short piece of wire sticking out there.
There’s about maybe a 1” - 1 1/2” extra winter inside. This was done per request by a electrician but he was going by my instructions prior to reading all the good stuff I have read after in here.


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luisrodz

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Hi Luisrodz,

Look for a IP POE intercomm / video which you may want to replace the doorbell with.
I looked into Door bird but a bit expensive for a doorbell. The one I got, Uniden doorbell, is giving me a lot of problems with connection a stability.


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mat200

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I looked into Door bird but a bit expensive for a doorbell. The one I got, Uniden doorbell, is giving me a lot of problems with connection a stability.


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HI Luis,

Skip the popular consumer grade products - look for the more professional grade IP POE products.

Wish you had brought an extra cat6/5e to that location.

You'll have some challenges with such short remaining lengths of cat5e/6 cable.
 

luisrodz

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HI Luis,

Skip the popular consumer grade products - look for the more professional grade IP POE products.

Wish you had brought an extra cat6/5e to that location.

You'll have some challenges with such short remaining lengths of cat5e/6 cable.
Any suggestions other than Door Bird?

I’m also thinking about pull it back to the attic and get 2 cat6 with a pOE extender. Do you think this should do the work? It’s going to be hard but possible.


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mat200

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Any suggestions other than Door Bird?

I’m also thinking about pull it back to the attic and get 2 cat6 with a pOE extender. Do you think this should do the work? It’s going to be hard but possible.


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Hi Luis

When I checked there were few IP POE video intercom / doorbell products I thought I would purchase as I saw this area of technology still needed to make some more advancements.

That was about 1+ year ago - so do take a look at the reviews members have done here on doorbell products as well as what Fenderman has recommended to others.
 

luisrodz

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@luisrodz

This is what I would be doing for the front of your new home, remember to test your locations before a final commitment.

View attachment 36141
I was planning to leave those at the soffit for few reasons:

1. WAF
2. Cables already there
3. Was wondering if I really need to do LPR

Still, I accept you guy recommendations.


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mat200

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I was planning to leave those at the soffit for few reasons:

1. WAF
2. Cables already there
3. Was wondering if I really need to do LPR

Still, I accept you guy recommendations.


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Hi Luis,

Cameras mounted in the soffit will be too high for suspects close to the walls.

The only way you will really appreciate this is by doing the following:

Set up a test rig and test the locations as SouthernYankee advises

Sometimes you have to see to believe.

Two cameras on the garage. Mount the cameras down to the upper edge on the garbage. Move the front door camera down. You need to see the people's face. Test it. Use a bucket, and 2x4 mount a camera mounted on it. Get a friend in a hoodie ball cap and sun glasses, see if you can easily identify them.
 

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I agree. If you want face shots 6-8 feet. Anything higher and a simple baseball cap will thwart all your cameras. Correct positioning should prevent damage from preventing you from getting a shot.
 

BigFoot

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I agree. If you want face shots 6-8 feet. Anything higher and a simple baseball cap will thwart all your cameras. Correct positioning should prevent damage from preventing you from getting a shot.
Thoroughly agree with this. Soffits are great for an an over view but nigh on useless for identification. My neighbour has some of his cameras mounted on his window sills (ledges) and gets perfect identification images even if the approaching person has their head down with a hat on
 

looney2ns

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Hi all,

After doing some extensive reading I came with this final setup. I would like your final advice to see if the placement and equipment is correct. I bought an Elitedesk 800 G3 256 SSD with 4 TB Purple drive in which I'm going to be installing BI.

I'm planning to buying some IPC-HDW5231R-Z or maybe you have other suggestions so I can save some $$$. I'm planning to star with 6 cameras and then expand. Here're my the placement I chose. Any critique is accepted.

View attachment 36123 View attachment 36124 View attachment 36125 View attachment 36126

I forgot to add the floor plan.

View attachment 36127
If you want any chance at ID'ing someone walking around any vehicles parked in the drive, you need a cam on each side of the door as shown in picture. You can always pant the cams and bracket to match the brick.

On the porch, that appears to be stucco on the right side of the door by the door bell.
Use some Panduit conduit to lower the cam down to at least 8ft, preferably 7ft.

House.jpg
 

looney2ns

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The old saying goes, plan in advance for the same amount of time, as it will take to build it, before ground is ever broken.

@SouthernYankee @mat200
What percentage of times was drilling the mortar, and running a wire snake up behind the brick successful?
I need to do this at my front door, distance would be about 3-3.5ft.
 

SouthernYankee

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Looney2ns.

I have done it 3 times. Been successful 100%. But it takes some time. Multiple attempts, the hardest part is getting he snake to make the turn up, with out going thru the insulation board. The other hard part is there is not much space between the roof overhang, and wall in the Attic. I am 70, I am not as flexable or agile as I once was.

I would only attempt to do this in the winter, no Attic work in the Texas summers .
 

mat200

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The old saying goes, plan in advance for the same amount of time, as it will take to build it, before ground is ever broken.

@SouthernYankee @mat200
What percentage of times was drilling the mortar, and running a wire snake up behind the brick successful?
I need to do this at my front door, distance would be about 3-3.5ft.
Hi Looney2ns,

If the mortar joint is wide enough and you have access somehow to the back side - snake via attic, garage,.. should be fine. Yes, it can be challenging.
 
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