Buying new cameras....which ones?

SpacecoastBill

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I'm looking for advice on which model cameras to buy for my new home build.

I am going the POE route.

I think the ColorVu models will work best. I was going to use dome cameras inside and out for anesthetics but it appears they may not have the resolution I want for outdoors. The 8mp cameras I think would be better.

The night clarity is important.

Opinions?
 

TonyR

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I suggest you consider a turret form factor, not a dome. The dome is prone to fogging over time due to UV attacking it and/or ambient fog moisture on its surface attracting dust.

Also, don't get too wrapped up in megapixels, especially since you said ".... night clarity is important."

Consider the Loryta IPC-T5442TM-AS 2.8mm Fixed Lens 4MP Starlight+ WDR IR Eyeball AI Network Camera English Version from @EMPIRETECANDY

Here's a great review with images by @aristobrat ==>> Review IPC-T5442TM-AS-LED (Full Color, Starlight+)
 
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sebastiantombs

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Start out by looking in the WiKi in the blue bar at the top of the page. There's a ton of very useful information in there and it needs to be viewed on a computer, not a phone or tablet. The Cliff Notes will be of particular interest although the camera models listed there are a generation old at this point. The best way to determine what kind of camera you need in each location and where each location should really be is to buy one varifocal camera first and set up a test stand for it that can be easily moved around. Test using that, viewing using the web interface of the camera, during the day and at night. Have someone walk around behaving like a miscreant and see if you can identify them. There is also information for choosing hardware and securing the system along with a whole bunch of other good stuff.

Don't chase megapixels unless you have a really BIG budget. Chase sensor size and bigger is better. To confuse you more sensor sizes are listed in fractions so do the basic math to be sure, 1/2.8 is bigger than 1/2.7 or 1/3. General rule of thumb is that a 4MP camera will easily outperform an 8MP camera when they both have the same sensor size. Reason being that there are twice as many pixels in the 8MP versus the 4MP. This results in only half the available light getting to each pixel in an 8MP that a pixel in the 4MP "sees".

Quick guide -

The smaller the lux number the better the low light performance. 0.002 is better than 0.02
The smaller the "F" of the lens the better the low light performance. F1.4 is better than F1.8
The larger the sensor the better the low light performance. 1/1.8" is better (bigger) than 1/2.7"
The higher the megapixels for the same size sensor the worse the low light performance. A 4MP camera with a 1/1.8" sensor will perform better than a 8MP camera with that same 1/1.8" sensor.

Don't believe all the marketing hype no matter who makes the camera. Don't believe those nice night time captures they all use. Look for videos, with motion, to determine low light performance. Any camera can be made to "see" color at night if the exposure time is long enough, as in half a second or longer. Rule of thumb, the shutter speed needs to be at 1/60 or higher to get night video without blurring.

Read the reviews here, most include both still shots and video.

Avoid Reolink, Foscam, SV3C, Nest, and all the other consumer grade cameras. They all struggle mightily at night and never get anything useful on video. Here's a link to a whole thread debunking Reolink in particular.

Compiled by mat200 -

Avoid WiFi cameras, even doorbell cameras. WiFi is not designed for the constant, 24/7, load of video that a surveillance camera produces. At best, with two cameras on WiFi, they will still experience dropouts multiple times daily. Murphy's Law says that will happen at the worst possible moment.

Lens size, focal length, is another critical factor. Many people like the wide, sweeping, views of a 2.8mm lens but be aware that identification is problematic with a lens that wide. Watch this video to learn how to analyze each location for appropriate lens size and keep in mind that it may take two cameras to provide the coverage you need or desire. Another factor that effects view angles is the sensor size. Typically larger sensors will have a larger field of view in any given lens size.

The 5442 series of cameras by Dahua is the current "king of the hill". They are 4MP and capable of color with some ambient light at night. The 2231 series is a less expensive alternative in 2MP and does not have audio capabilities, no built in microphone, but is easier on the budget. The 3241T-ZAS has similar spcs as the 2231 and has audio. There are also cameras available from the IPCT Store right here on the forum and from Nelly's Security who has a thread in the vendors section.

5442 Reviews

Review - Loryata (Dahua OEM) IPC-T5442T-ZE varifocal Turret

Review - OEM IPC-B5442E-ZE 4MP AI Varifocal Bullet Camera With Starlight+

Review-OEM 4mp AI Cam IPC-T5442TM-AS Starlight+ Turret

Review IPC-T5442TM-AS-LED (Turret, Full Color, Starlight+)

Review: IPC-HDBW5442R-ASE-NI - Dahua Technology Pro AI Bullet Network Camera

2231 Review
Review-OEM IPC-T2231RP-ZS 2mp Varifocal Turret Starlight Camera

3241T-ZAS Review

Less expensive models -
 

TVille

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I was going to respond about night vision, sensor size and chasing pixels. Instead, just read what @sebastiantombs wrote above!! Trust him, trust me, night clarity can be amazing, with the right camera, AND the right adjustments. I will dig out some clips of a couple of cameras I have at a remote, totally dark cabin, the adjustments made a HUGE difference in night vision!
 

wittaj

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In most instances, you want to get a camera that will perform at your location for the worse situation, which for most of us is at night when it is dark and there is little to no light. If a camera performs at night, it is easier to tweak settings to make it work during the day than it is the other way around.

My 2MP cameras outperform my neighbors 4K (8MP) cameras....why because they are both on the same size sensor.

When we had a thief come thru here and get into a lot of cars, the police couldn't use one video or photo from anyone's system but mine. Not even my other neighbors $1,300 4k system provided useful info - the cams just didn't cut it at night. His system wasn't even a year old and after that event has started replacing with cameras purchased from Andy based on my recommendation and seeing my results. He is still shocked a 2MP camera performs better than his 4k cameras... It is all about the amount of light needed and getting the right camera for the right location.

It is simple LOL do not chase MP - do not buy a 4MP camera that is anything other than a 1/1.8" sensor. Do not buy a 2MP camera that is anything other than a 1/2.8" sensor. Do not buy a 4K (8MP) camera on anything smaller than a 1/1.2" sensor. Unfortunately, most 4k cams are on the same sensor as a 2MP and thus the 2MP will kick its butt all night long as the 4k will need 4 times the light than the 2MP... 4k will do very poor at night unless you have stadium quality lighting (well a lot of lighting LOL).

Do not be sold by some trademarked night color vision (Full Color, ColorVu, Starlight, etc.) that is a marketing ploy in a lot of ways lol. It is simply what a manufacturer wants to claim for low-light performance, but there are so many games that can be played even with the how they report the spec numbers. They will claim a low lux of 0.001 for example, but then that is with a wide open iris and a shutter at 1/3 second and an f1.0 - as soon as you have motion in it, it will be crap. You need a shutter of at minimum 1/60 second to reduce a lot of blur from someone walking.

All cameras need light. Simple physics.

Check out this video at midnight. You see this and it looks like daytime and be like WOW I want that camera. But any motion in the frame and it is crap and will be a ghost blur. You notice they do not show anything with motion. I can make all my cameras look like this at midnight with no other light, but we want good motion video, not still images video. This is a very nice cameras with enough light at night but do we have enough light? All cameras, regardless of what they are called, need light - either white light or infrared. Simple physics. If you know what to look for, you can see clues likely indicating motion will be a complete motion-blur ghost.


While this camera is not what we would call a consumer grade camera and this is a really good camera, it is these games that the consumer grade cameras of the world do to their camera to make it look good at night - but then a person walking by is a blur and people simply say well the camera isn't good at night. If you have the ability to change the settings, you can make it work. Just remember that every increase in shutter speed needs more light. So I can set mine to 1/250 second and eliminate blur at night, but then all that is visible is a 5 foot diameter around the camera IF I have enough light. And most of us find that the LED white light on these cameras are useless.

You can find reviews here of people that put them in dark settings with no light and then the ColorVu would be useless to you. And you cannot add IR light because the camera will not see it...

Here is a recent one where a member posted their situation and the poor quality of a ColorVu camera with no light:



With almost any light, the ColorVu is a great camera, but it does need some light. Members here with streetlights have posted some incredible night video with motion.

I have a Full Color type camera and the LED light on it is a gimmick. It helps for a small diameter circle, but it is no different than going outside at pitch black and turning on your cell phone light - it is bright looking directly at the LED light, but it doesn't spread out and reach very far. Fortunately I have enough ambient light that I do not need the little piddly LED light on and it actually looks worse with it on. But with my floodlights on, it performs better than my other cameras when tested at the same location. But without some light, a camera with IR capability is the safer bet.
 
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SpacecoastBill

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Thanks for all those replies, I have some reading to do.

I guess I will only use dome cameras on the interior and likely a turret outside.

The main things I see so far is to forget looking at the MPs and focus on the focal length. Since capturing the faces on anyone at night is important I will have to add motion activated floodlights.

I want to stick with one brand camera, and I am leaning heavily to Hikvision.

One camera thoughI need to try to capture license plates and use LPR to capture the digits on the plates. It will be about 30 feet to the street.
 

wittaj

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Good thing you came here first and not bought some cameras the hookup recommends and then come here asking why they don't work LOL:lmao:

Regarding the camera focal length to get, take a look at this chart - to identify someone with the 2.8mm lens that is popular, someone would have to be within 13 feet of the camera, but realistically within 10 feet after you dial it in to your settings.

1604638118196.png


My neighbor was bragging to me how he only needed his 4 2.8mm fixed lens cams to see his entire property and the street and his whole backyard. His car was sitting in the driveway practically touching the garage door and his video quality was useless to ID the perp not even 10 feet away.

Here are my general distance recommendations, but switch out the Dahua 5442 series camera to the equivalent 2MP on the 1/2.8" sensor or equivalent Hikvision works as well.
  • 5442 fixed lens 2.8mm - anything within 10 feet of camera OR as an overview camera
  • 5442 ZE - varifocal - distances up to 40-50 feet (personally I wouldn't go past the 30 foot range but I like things closer)
  • 5442 Z4E - anything up to 80-100 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 60 feet but I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - anything from 80 feet to almost 200 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 150 feet because I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - for a license plate cam that you would angle up the street to get plates up to about 175 feet away, or up to 220 with additional IR.
  • 49225 PTZ - great PTZ and in conjunction with an NVR or Blue Iris and the cameras above that you can use as spotter cams to point the PTZ to the correct location to compliment the fixed cams.
You need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who.

Main keys are you can't locate the camera too high (not on the 2nd story or above 7 feet high unless it is for overview and not Identification purposes) or chase MP and you need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who. Also, do not chase marketing phrases like ColorVu and Full Color and the like - all cameras need light - simple physics...

I encourage you reach out to Andy @EMPIRETECANDY as he has an Amazon site to get your gear.

Regarding a camera for LPR - keep in mind that this is a camera dedicated to plates and not an overview camera also. You will need two cameras. For LPR we need to zoom in tight to make the plate as large as possible. For most of us, all you see is the not much more than a vehicle in the entire frame. Now maybe in the right location during the day it might be able to see some other things, but not at night.

At night, we have to run a very fast shutter speed (1/2,000) and in B/W with IR and the image will be black. All you will see are head/tail lights and the plate. Some people can get away with color if they have enough street lights, but most of us cannot. Here is a representative sample of plates I get at night of vehicles traveling about 45MPH:

1607010182386.png
 

SpacecoastBill

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Good thing you came here first and not bought some cameras the hookup recommends and then come here asking why they don't work LOL:lmao:

Regarding the camera focal length to get, take a look at this chart - to identify someone with the 2.8mm lens that is popular, someone would have to be within 13 feet of the camera, but realistically within 10 feet after you dial it in to your settings.

1604638118196.png


My neighbor was bragging to me how he only needed his 4 2.8mm fixed lens cams to see his entire property and the street and his whole backyard. His car was sitting in the driveway practically touching the garage door and his video quality was useless to ID the perp not even 10 feet away.

Here are my general distance recommendations, but switch out the Dahua 5442 series camera to the equivalent 2MP on the 1/2.8" sensor or equivalent Hikvision works as well.
  • 5442 fixed lens 2.8mm - anything within 10 feet of camera OR as an overview camera
  • 5442 ZE - varifocal - distances up to 40-50 feet (personally I wouldn't go past the 30 foot range but I like things closer)
  • 5442 Z4E - anything up to 80-100 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 60 feet but I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - anything from 80 feet to almost 200 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 150 feet because I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - for a license plate cam that you would angle up the street to get plates up to about 175 feet away, or up to 220 with additional IR.
  • 49225 PTZ - great PTZ and in conjunction with an NVR or Blue Iris and the cameras above that you can use as spotter cams to point the PTZ to the correct location to compliment the fixed cams.
You need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who.

Main keys are you can't locate the camera too high (not on the 2nd story or above 7 feet high unless it is for overview and not Identification purposes) or chase MP and you need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who. Also, do not chase marketing phrases like ColorVu and Full Color and the like - all cameras need light - simple physics...

I encourage you reach out to Andy @EMPIRETECANDY as he has an Amazon site to get your gear.

Regarding a camera for LPR - keep in mind that this is a camera dedicated to plates and not an overview camera also. You will need two cameras. For LPR we need to zoom in tight to make the plate as large as possible. For most of us, all you see is the not much more than a vehicle in the entire frame. Now maybe in the right location during the day it might be able to see some other things, but not at night.

At night, we have to run a very fast shutter speed (1/2,000) and in B/W with IR and the image will be black. All you will see are head/tail lights and the plate. Some people can get away with color if they have enough street lights, but most of us cannot. Here is a representative sample of plates I get at night of vehicles traveling about 45MPH:

1607010182386.png
Thanks!

Im a research a holic. I burn a hole in the internet before buying things.

Its a single story house, and Im putting the outside cameras under the eaves. (motion activated floodlights as well)

I wish I could get away with mounting cameras on my mailbox. Its a street side mailbox, but Im worried about damage or theft.... and the HOA might complain....
 

sebastiantombs

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Lean more toward sensor size first, then consider focal length. Hikvision makes excellent cameras as well. I've been using Dahua since I found IPCT and am very satisfied with them. A forum member, Andy, offers great prices, service and stands behind the products he sells. He can also get Hikvision cameras so you may want to contact him directly. Be aware that the "chip shortage" is driving prices up and availability down right now for either Hik or Dahua.

IPCT Thread

Andy's Store

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Email
Andy Wang kingsecurity2014@163.com
 
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wittaj

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Many here have put cameras on the mailbox and they haven't been touched.

People are oblivious to their surroundings....
 

sebastiantombs

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Here's an idea for hiding a camera in a mailbox, well a modified mailbox -

 

SouthernYankee

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Motion activate floods lights, will blind a night camera as it tries to adjust to the light. Either have lights or do not have lights. Or use multiple IR "lights". I have 400 lumens down lights mounted in the center of the soffits about 5 ft apart . Also I have garden lights, Nothing is blazingly bright, just nice even light.

If the house is not built run Ethernet wires at all possible locations.
============================================
1) the front door needs three cameras, one doorbell camera, one pointing at the package drop area, one pointing back to the front door.
2) the garage entrance Needs two cameras pointing out mounted no higher than the top of the garage door.
3) the inside of the garage need two cameras one point at the garage door and one point at the house entrance
4) each entrance to the house must be covered by a camera.
5) each camera must be covered by another camera, If i can destroy a camera it must be covered, recorded by another camera.
6) in my house all public areas inside are covered, kitchen, living room, dining room, halls, game room, den
7) all outside doors are covered by a camera inside, pointing out.
 

looney2ns

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Thanks!

Im a research a holic. I burn a hole in the internet before buying things.

Its a single story house, and Im putting the outside cameras under the eaves. (motion activated floodlights as well)

I wish I could get away with mounting cameras on my mailbox. Its a street side mailbox, but Im worried about damage or theft.... and the HOA might complain....
Be certain to study the Cliff Notes.
Don't mount cams higher than 8ft, or you won't get anything but the tops of heads. Faces are the target.
You want to know who did it, not just what happened.
 

SpacecoastBill

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Lean more toward sensor size first, then consider focal length. Hikvision makes excellent cameras as well. I've been using Dahua since I found IPCT and am very satisfied with them. A forum member, Andy, offers great prices, service and stands behind the products he sells. He can also get Hikvision cameras so you may want to contact him directly. Be aware that the "chip shortage" is driving prices up and availability down right now for either Hik or Dahua.

IPCT Thread

Andy's Store

King Security/EmpireTech Store

Email
Andy Wang kingsecurity2014@163.com

Well construction is gonna take a year so there is time for everything to right itself. Maybe even get a great price if I give a 10% kickback to the "big guy" :)

I will check out Dahua. I think I will have about a dozen cameras or so. Im using BI. Im also looking into the doorbell cams.
 
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SpacecoastBill

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Here's an idea for hiding a camera in a mailbox, well a modified mailbox -

Great idea, but the HOA has a specified mailbox and post to use. The Karens would see that extra bottom and go postal......

Maybe I can make it smaller since its gonna be POE powered... if the distance will work... .probably 30 feet or so. And I can find cameras good to work as LPRs.....

 
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wittaj

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Paint it to match the mailbox and see if Karen notices it LOL.

If you can add some vine up the mailbox do that to further hide it.
 

SpacecoastBill

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SpacecoastBill

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Be certain to study the Cliff Notes.
Don't mount cams higher than 8ft, or you won't get anything but the tops of heads. Faces are the target.
You want to know who did it, not just what happened.
I get that. I have cameras at 4 feet or so now. But the new construction will leave the eaves as the only viable place to install them.

Here is the model.....

 

mat200

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I'm looking for advice on which model cameras to buy for my new home build.

I am going the POE route.

I think the ColorVu models will work best. I was going to use dome cameras inside and out for anesthetics but it appears they may not have the resolution I want for outdoors. The 8mp cameras I think would be better.

The night clarity is important.

Opinions?
Hi @SpacecoastBill

New Home Build.. in an HOA zone ..

The most important thing is getting the cabling done well enough at this point. Definitely over cable .. looks like copper prices going up, so I'd not skimp right now when you have a good chance to do it well.

Remember to check your locations, often they can be too high to get a good angle on someone.

If you are planning to mount the cameras higher than 6-8 feet, look to get a stronger lens and capture suspects further away from the camera so you have a chance at a decent angle to get a facial ID image capture.

General rules:
N+1+ for cabling.. think you only need N cable runs to a location, run one more at least.
make certain you have enough room for the "data center", power, and AC
 

SpacecoastBill

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Hi @SpacecoastBill

New Home Build.. in an HOA zone ..

The most important thing is getting the cabling done well enough at this point. Definitely over cable .. looks like copper prices going up, so I'd not skimp right now when you have a good chance to do it well.

Remember to check your locations, often they can be too high to get a good angle on someone.

If you are planning to mount the cameras higher than 6-8 feet, look to get a stronger lens and capture suspects further away from the camera so you have a chance at a decent angle to get a facial ID image capture.

General rules:
N+1+ for cabling.. think you only need N cable runs to a location, run one more at least.
make certain you have enough room for the "data center", power, and AC

My current house they threatened to pull out the nails as unnecessary due to the amount of Cat 5 that I put in.

This new build I am using Cat 6 and I am installing all low volt. At least 4 per room, a den with 4 on each wall, and at least 8 where the TV is going. So yea, Im dropping cable everywhere. The POE camera drops will have 2 Cat 6 even though I only need one. I have carte blanche to run what I want.

As for the data center I got that covered. A 5X8 room where I am putting all low volt into. A 20U rack and everything rack mounted. All Coax, Cat 6, security wire runs will start there. 3/4 inch plywood on the walls with a grounding bar and the ability to put anything there as needed.

Putting in both an AC register as well as a AC return in the closet to ensure good flow with the door closed... even though I am going to use a fully louvered door. I also have a good exhaust fan if things get a bit warm in there.
 
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