Clear color imagery at night of non-motion (or very slow motion) nature...Clouds, trees, flowers, etc..I can only partially do that at 1/3 and even then it means cranking the gain (ISO) to the max (which makes the image very noisy) and opening the aperture all the way (shallow depth of field/bad for landscapes and a slight reduction in clarity)....A 1 second would allow you to lower the aperture and ISO making for properly exposed images without noise and with better depth of field. That was the primary selling point for me getting this unit as even the non-starlight sensors can do this on a 1 second exposure. A starlight could have been even better! However, with the starlight being capped at only 1/3 second, it's not even as good as what the non-starlights can do at 1 second.
Dahua 2MP 25x Starlight IR PTZ Network Camera (SD49225T-HN)
- Thread starter ldasilva
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- sd49225t-hn
Hi all
Need some expert advice..
So some time ago I got water damage, my POE switch was completely flooded.
Since then I noticed that I could not rotate my cams anymore via Blue Iris and could not login anymore.
I had two Huissun, so I though they were just fried. So I bought this Dahua. On my test stand the cam worked perfectly.
Today I mounted the cam to the wall outside and it has the same problem as my Huissun. Can't rotate and can't login, but I get visual via Blue Iris.
Could this really be the cable that is screwed or something else? I am clueless and if it's the cable I'm really screwed..
Thanks for you advice
Need some expert advice..
So some time ago I got water damage, my POE switch was completely flooded.
Since then I noticed that I could not rotate my cams anymore via Blue Iris and could not login anymore.
I had two Huissun, so I though they were just fried. So I bought this Dahua. On my test stand the cam worked perfectly.
Today I mounted the cam to the wall outside and it has the same problem as my Huissun. Can't rotate and can't login, but I get visual via Blue Iris.
Could this really be the cable that is screwed or something else? I am clueless and if it's the cable I'm really screwed..
Thanks for you advice
nayr
IPCT Contributor
You mean like lying about the Lux capabilities because Hik gives you specs for Apertures they dont include in the optic package?
FYI The latest firmware for the Starlight Varifocal Bullet/Turret really improved the color balance in the daytime.. quite possible a firmware update will fix the issues your bitching about
Let me know when you find a Darkfighter Hik PTZ for $350 lol
This is a security camera, not a nature camera.. sounds like you should be mounting a DLSR to a fixed mount w/some hacked firmware since you want photography instead of Security.
looney2ns
IPCT Contributor
So, if the POE switch was flooded, then that means the network cables/RJ45s that were connected to said switch, also were flooded, right?
The cable for the cam that has issues, cut off the RJ45 that was under water, and replace it, would be the easiest first step.
hmjgriffon
Known around here
No surprise. All these chinese companies seem to be crooked in some way or another. I've got no kind of meter to test the Lux capabilities with other than the general visible scale (starlight, twilight, full moon, etc) and they've always seemed to match up pretty well. The Lux values are not calculated on slow shutter anyway, so running on slow shutter is likely giving me a better Lux rating than given in the specs anyway, which may be why I've not noticed any issues.
That much sounds encouraging, although the color isn't the primary issue that I'm "bitching about"...Sure, the white balance issue is inconvenient, but as long as I can make a manual WB adjustment to correct the issue, then I can get by...What's really got my dander up is the shutter specs being 3x off. That's significantly less light-gathering time. I have little hope of a firmware update being able to fix this as the specs listed on the capabilities page says it's limited to approx 1/3...I can't see a firmware update forcing 1 second if the hardware is limited to 1/3 second. I can hope it was somehow capped at this value in error and can be fixed, but I'm not holding my breath.
You're missing the point. Again, the Lux values are not based on slow shutter. With a true one second shutter speed, I probably could get a lighter image than this without even needing a darkfighter/starlight ...There are non-darkfighter Hik PTZs in the $350 range...One of the latest ones lists the Lux as color: .02 / B&W: .005...Even if those specs are a bit off, the end result on a 1 second shutter speed would probably be brighter than this starlight cam since it's capped at 1/3...The sensor on the non-darkfighter Hik is less sensitive, but with the exposure time allowing several times more light gathering, the net result would be at least as good, if not better...The only benefit this starlight ptz would have would be at higher shutter speeds since it's capped from going to the slowest speeds.
CCTV and IP Cams aren't strictly for security. They're for continuous, long term surveillance. It's not limited to just watching criminals. Transportation departments use them to monitor traffic, media companies use them to monitor weather, farmers use them to monitor crops, zoos use them to show off their animals on the web as advertising, etc...Biggest difference is the CCTV is for fixed, continuous, long term observation, where DSLR's and home movie cameras are used for portable, short term observation (with DSLR being geared toward the professional end of the spectrum). A DSLR or home movie camera isn't designed to be mounted outside and recording 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 52 weeks a year. They probably wouldn't last very long under those conditions. What I need is a CCTV IP Camera that lives up to the specs listed in it's advertisement.
The shutter is just as important to me as the pan range would be important to others. Wouldn't be too happy if you bought a 360 degree PTZ to cover your yard only to find out once you purchased it that it will only spin 120 degrees (a third of the expected amount)....You wouldn't be able to do with it the primary thing you had purchased it for. Same in my case, except instead of pan range, my issue is the shutter speed only being a third of the advertised specs...but when it's a dark scene that needed that slower shutter, the result is the same; I'm not able to do the primary reason I purchased it for. As a consumer, we have a right to expect products to match the specs it's advertised to have.
wantafastz28
Getting comfortable
Guess it is time for you to sell the camera(probably get what you paid for it), and find the next brand to complain about.
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Thanks for the helpful advice. Wouldn't have to complain if companies would give you what you paid for and not tell you it will do things that it won't. Wanting correct specs on a product isn't too much to ask. That's kind of a standard expectation to most people.
And yes, I see the 1/1 and 1/2 shutter options on your screen shot. They're listed on mine as well..They just don't do anything. They both give the same frame rate and exposure as 1/3...
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wantafastz28
Getting comfortable
How about a snapshot with this cam....here is a fat worm feed Robin
Nice shot! How close was the robin to the camera? and were you zoomed all the way?
Nice! Was trying to figure in my head how you obtained the shallow depth of field/background bokeh effect. I tried to catch a bird the other day but he was too fast for me.....but I did catch this little guy yesterday! He was eating a stick (or either something off of the stick). Video was better because you could see him picking up the stick and then see his mouth chewing on it.
nayr
IPCT Contributor
If your running really low shutter speeds then your wanting low light performance; Go ahead and try but I guarantee you a NonStarlight/NonDarkfighter running at 1/1 exposure is not going to come close to this starlight running at 1/3 exposure.. Its all about the photon gathering abilities and the Lux ratings do have meaning that your just dismissing.. but go ahead and prove me wrong; I'd love to see it.
Honestly, I don't know for sure...All else being equal, a 1/3 to 1/1 jump would be a +1.667 stop, or 1.667 times brighter... If I'm remembering correctly, 4x the LUX is equal to twice the brightness...If that is so, then 1.667 times brighter would be a 6.668 times increase in LUX...Thus a .02 lux at 1/1 would equal a .003 at 1/3...which would be a little over half increase in brightness on the non-starlight.
A physical test that may work would be using a current camera at a given shutter speed and then bumping this starlight to a 1.668 stop faster shutter...For example, if the non-starlight is at 1/30 shutter, the starlight would have to be 1/100...That would probably be a more direct comparison, provided the ISO and Aperture are the same. I don't really have adequate equipment right now to compare with as the specs on my other cams don't line up, but I may play around a little bit and try to compensate for any differences to get a general idea if my theory is correct.
you guys still think this cam is the best bang for the buck for a first PTZ?..need something to monitor unscrupulous contractors..
hmjgriffon
Known around here
cool...thanks! which junction box is needed?
...I guess I'd just need the junction box, and POE+ injector?...then run into a POE+ gigabit switch where my 5231R-Z's will be going as well? is that right?
hmjgriffon
Known around here
depends on you particular mounting situation, pole mount? corner mount? mounting to a wall? what are you mounting to?