The 4MP range seems to have a significantly better lux rating, wonder how much of that is real.
Guys what’s the best setting t have on the 2335 for nighttime only! Strictly want them for night only in colour!
From memory:
Leave your IR "On", set the sensitivity to 7 (that will still turn the IR on if you lose your visible lighting)
Turn "WDR" off and use "HLC" (on auto IIRC)
Noise reduction on "Expert" and leave the top line at zero and the bottom around 30-50%
I'll check for sure later. I recently set up a Day and Night schedule using time only. That let me optimise the night settings without affecting the daytime viewing.
PS: Love your Audi- is it an RS3?
You may also need to add an additional low powered visible light to get useful colour night vision, or a PIR controlled sensor light. It will also serve as a deterrent to anyone who thinks about entering your yard.
I recently had my first thief going through my street at 4AM. He was going up to all the cars in the street and checking if they were unlocked, if they were he was rummaging through taking anything of value. It was funny as he went to walk up our driveway to the car and immediately did a u-turn and walked out again when all the sensor lights went on. (I've got permanent visible LED floodlights plus numerous sensor lights.) I don't know if he spotted the cameras or not. He did steal out of two neighbours cars- my cameras picked it up.
If hard wiring lights is too hard, a couple of Arilux AL-SL12 lights will be more than enough.
My experience from similar solar lights is that their solar panel is very weak and poor quality that even in direct sunlight exposure all day, the solar panel does not charge fully the batteries.
Also I have tried several LED lights to enhance the illumination at night. The problem is that these lights produce a very concentrated light at a very specific area, they do not diffuse the light over a wider area. The result is burn out areas and dark areas elsewhere. I have the 2335 cameras which can cope very well with WDR and still fail in certain cases. The solution was to use large LED panels (120cm x 30 cm) 45W, 5400 Lumens from VTAC that produced a more uniform lighting over the area. With these lights I got a more uniform contrast over a larger area than the spot LED lights. In that case the camera 2335 coped extremely well. It is very difficult to predict the illumination of an LED as seen by a camera. Do not be fouled by your eyes. Human eyes have extremely wide dynamic area. Compare what you-me-humans see, when we look at almost direct sunlight (or high contrast scenes) with the picture that the digital camera sees.
EDIT: In general use more low watt-lumen lights distributed evenly over the area, rather than a very high lumen light in one spot.
Your door shot has very poor illumination at the car distance because of your door light at the left of the pic. You must avoid such light or change the camera location to avoid it. Alternatively add more light towards the car to balance the contrast.