Problems configuring Reolink 823-A with BI5

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The Reolink may record like that day and night, but at night the motion is a blur by comparison. Yes, the still shots will look great, but anything moving will be a blurred mess if visible at all, especially if moving faster than a snail.
 

user8963

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Thanks, this is how the reolink record at day and night.
+1 what @sebastiantombs said

AND
Reolink cameras have problems with iframe intervall, so the motion detection with blueiris/synology/... is a pain in the ass !
also the 8-12MP models have h265 ONLY on mainstream, which is also problematic ...
Some models uses VBR by default, which can also be problematic ...

In theory you can run the camera with double iframe rate and still have no blurr / ghosting when watching..
but blue iris is a pain with detection.

as i already told you...
if you can send the reolink cameras back, do it .
if you want to use their NVR and not blueiris, there will be much less problems with the cameras itself (but they still will have problems at night with blurr/ghosting)
 

user8963

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Thanks, this is how the reolink record at day and night.
The best what you can TRY..
update the camera to at least v3.1.0.764
Reolink removed the iframe settings from previous firmwares , but they have an iframe interval of 1 by default now
(not sure how it works out)

THEN
login into the webinterface (not the fucking APP)

try to use manual shutter AND gain (these options might be available somewhere !)
then use max of 0- 50 for gain and 0- 16.67ms for shutter..

the image should be ALOT darker, but also ALOT better.

with fast moving cars like you show, 16.67ms will be not low enough... so if the image is still "ok" for you, you can lower it to 6-10ms for more improvement.
 

Tinchox17

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The best what you can TRY..
update the camera to at least v3.1.0.764
Reolink removed the iframe settings from previous firmwares , but they have an iframe interval of 1 by default now
(not sure how it works out)

THEN
login into the webinterface (not the fucking APP)

try to use manual shutter AND gain (these options might be available somewhere !)
then use max of 0- 50 for gain and 0- 16.67ms for shutter..

the image should be ALOT darker, but also ALOT better.

with fast moving cars like you show, 16.67ms will be not low enough... so if the image is still "ok" for you, you can lower it to 6-10ms for more improvement.
yeah, that's the problem, all my cameras have the last firmware.

the only place i can find the shutter settings is in the phone app.
but i doesn't have any number, so i have to guess. (check screenshot)

and this is only in the 410. the 810A doesn't have this settings.
 

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wittaj

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That is the problem with the Reolinks. You have to either live with the horrible night video motion or get new cameras....

What Reolink makes up in for static image quality (and the static image is what almost every NOOB gets fascinated with), they lack when it comes to motion at night...

The budget cams @Flintstone61 will run circles around the Reolinks at night when there is motion. And that is what we want is to be able to stop the playback and get a clean capture of a perp in motion.


What you mean a missing hand isn't normal LOL :lmao:



1643481441182.png




How about missing everything but the head and upper torso :lmao:

The invisible man, where can he be. Thank goodness he is carrying around a reflective plate to see where he is LOL

I've seen better images on an episode of ghost hunters :lmao:



1643488485807.png




And of course, this is an example from Reolink's marketing videos - do you see a person in this picture...yes, there is a person in this picture.... Could this provide anything useful for the police other than the date and time something happened? Would this protect your home? The still picture looks great though except for the person and the blur of the vehicle... Will give you a hint - the person is in between the two columns:



1642215852060.png




Bad Boys
Bad Boys
Watcha gonna do
Watcha gonna do
When the camera can't see you


 

user8963

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and this is only in the 410. the 810A doesn't have this settings.
stop using their bullshit app. you dont have any options with these stupid apps.

Please find out what IP the camera have,

go with an BROWSER onto the ip and post pictures of the webinterface settings.

to my knowledge all reolink cameras which have an interface have settings, but some rumors say that they removed shutter/gain.

some found out that you can install an old version of their windows software and be able to make these settings.

but again...

the best what you can do is to send them back if you can
 

wittaj

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Thanks, this is how the reolink record at day and night.
So, let's take a look at your night video.

You have incredible light and streetlights. Here is a freeze frame capture from your camera of a vehicle traveling maybe 10-15ish MPH under the streetlight, so about as ideal as you can get. Looking at this picture one would think it was middle of the day because you have so much light, but it was middle of the night 1am. Look at all that blur. I can tell it is a white car, but cannot tell make/model or if it is even a 2 or 4 door.

1645288648699.png


I have nowhere near the light quality you have at night (look how long the shadow is of this vehicle compared to the tiny shadow of the vehicle in your image that is basically underneath the vehicle because you have so much light). Here is a capture from my camera at middle of the night 2am with no streetlights and just the floodlights off my house at about 15ish MPH:

1645288822951.png

I can make out color, how many doors, make, model, etc.

The only way this is possible is by having a camera with the proper focal length for the distance one wants to cover, proper MP/sensor ratio, and a camera where you can manually change the parameters and the camera actually adheres to your settings.

Many cameras like Reolinks and other cheapo cams let you "set" the parameters, but the camera will override any user settings the the camera believes are in error because those cameras algorithms are written to provide a nice, bright, STATIC image over anything else, but that comes at a cost of blurred motion at night. I have a cheaper camera that lets me "set" the shutter. If you set a shutter for 1/10,000 at night, the image shouldl be pitch black. But nope, the image still looks nice and bright because the cheapo camera internally says "user error on the shutter speed" and makes it what it wants it to be for a nice bright image...
 
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Tinchox17

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stop using their bullshit app. you dont have any options with these stupid apps.

Please find out what IP the camera have,

go with an BROWSER onto the ip and post pictures of the webinterface settings.

to my knowledge all reolink cameras which have an interface have settings, but some rumors say that they removed shutter/gain.

some found out that you can install an old version of their windows software and be able to make these settings.

but again...

the best what you can do is to send them back if you can
This is the setting, funny enough, only the cheapest of my relink cameras, rlc 410 & 520 have these settings. the supposedly better model, 810A don't have any settings, with the last firmware.



So, let's take a look at your night video.

You have incredible light and streetlights. Here is a freeze frame capture from your camera of a vehicle traveling maybe 10-15ish MPH under the streetlight, so about as ideal as you can get. Looking at this picture one would think it was middle of the day because you have so much light, but it was middle of the night 1am. Look at all that blur. I can tell it is a white car, but cannot tell make/model or if it is even a 2 or 4 door.




I have nowhere near the light quality you have at night (look how long the shadow is of this vehicle compared to the tiny shadow of the vehicle in your image that is basically underneath the vehicle because you have so much light). Here is a capture from my camera at middle of the night 2am with no streetlights and just the floodlights off my house at about 15ish MPH:



I can make out color, how many doors, make, model, etc.

The only way this is possible is by having a camera with the proper focal length for the distance one wants to cover, proper MP/sensor ratio, and a camera where you can manually change the parameters and the camera actually adheres to your settings.

Many cameras like Reolinks and other cheapo cams let you "set" the parameters, but the camera will override any user settings the the camera believes are in error because those cameras algorithms are written to provide a nice, bright, STATIC image over anything else, but that comes at a cost of blurred motion at night. I have a cheaper camera that lets me "set" the shutter. If you set a shutter for 1/10,000 at night, the image shouldl be pitch black. But nope, the image still looks nice and bright because the cheapo camera internally says "user error on the shutter speed" and makes it what it wants it to be for a nice bright image...

thanks, i will try to replace at least one camera, maybe one of these IPC-T2231T-ZS, IPC-T3241T-ZAS, IPC-T2431T-AS. will see.
 

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wittaj

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This is sad.
Also sad that the default settings are 125ms??? That is way too much !
What could possible be wrong with a 1/8s shutter speed LOL.

UM everything. That is how a camera can give a bright static image and looks like noon at midnight, but then ghost/blur city with motion.

And too many people get fascinated with the bright static image. How many reviews online do you see where someone says "the picture quality is great" and then proceeds to show a snapshot of a static image.

Shutter needs to be no slower than 1/60s to start to eliminate blur.
 

user8963

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thanks, i will try to replace at least one camera, maybe one of these IPC-T2231T-ZS, IPC-T3241T-ZAS, IPC-T2431T-AS. will see.
You can also contact Andy directly.
Not sure how to ship to Uruguay , maybe its better directly from China, no idea.
Maybe there are local sellers which can provide you a better price?? no idea.

No one is forced to buy from IPCTshop or from andy.. (but mostly its the cheapest and best way)

You can also start your own thread with pictures of your mounting points to get help which camera may fit best for what you want.
For example you may dont need a ZS model as overview camera, because you maybe have no benefit from the additional zoom.

All depends on what you want and where you can mount the cameras..
There is only one rule... reolink cameras will never be good for anything. Even their battery cameras (which all sucks in general somehow, not related only to reolink) are one of the worst as we now know thanks to "THE HOOKUP"
 

Michael James

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H264 no H or anything else

15 FPS
15 iframes
8192 bitrate

Match H264 and 15 FPS/iframes for substream also.

This is a powerful camera though and you are running your cameras thru your router.

You may have to end up isolating them from the router (which you should do anyway).

Cameras connected to Wifi routers are problematic for surveillance cameras because they are always streaming and passing data. And the data demands go up with motion and then you lose signal. A lost packet and it has to resend. It can bring the whole network down if trying to send cameras through a wifi router. At the very least it can slow down your system. And then any distance will slow the speed even more.

Unlike Netflix and other streaming services that buffer a movie, these cameras do not buffer up part of the video, so drop outs are frequent. You would be amazed how much streaming services buffer - don't believe me, start watching something and unplug your router and watch how much longer you can watch NetFlix before it freezes - mine goes 45 seconds. Now do the same with a wifi camera and it is fairly instantaneous (within the latency of the stream itself)...

The same issue applies even with the hard-wired cameras trying to send all this non-buffer video stream through a router. Most consumer grade wifi routers are not designed to pass the constant video stream data of cameras, and since they do not buffer, you get these issues. The consumer routers are just not designed for this kind of traffic, even a GB speed router.
Im still having issues with tracking (please note I am doing this on my laptop and taking a picture with my phone since I have no help here)

During the day, If I walk into the yard and stop, it stays on me for maybe 10 seconds then returns to where the red box is. Where nothing is?? Confusing.
Its supposed to stay locked on me for 5 minutes right? Even when Im stopped or moving a little?

At night, if you look above the right window, I have a bullet camera with IR lights. Not sure if that is affecting anything her. I have attached a couple pics where it shows me entering the frame but then doesn't track me at all

Night is worse in that it rarely tracks me.

On day or night, If I stare at the camera it seems to do better tracking but worse at night

Also, I am not sure if the updated firmware is correct. Is this actually the latest version of the firmware? Its never updated. I bought the camera from Andy.
SD49425XB-HNR


Any insight would be great.
 

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mat200

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Im having this problem with the 810A and 410.

during daylight, the cameras work "fine" at the right fps, but during the night, the cameras are at half fps.

i couldn't find any settings, reolink support told me is what reolink camaras do, they switch to half fps during night.


im guessing there is nothing i can do right?
Hi @Tinchox17

Reolinks are very affordable cameras and are known to be very poor low light performers and known that the firmware "cheats" the settings to make still images look better in low light at the expense of very poor moving image capture
 

Michael James

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Something else in my testing.. This is during the day. Havent tested at night yet. But I can be 30 feet away or 5 feet away. If I stop and stare at the camera... Try to move the least I can (try to be motionless) it goes back to preset 1 in 6-12 seconds.
 

wittaj

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Im still having issues with tracking (please note I am doing this on my laptop and taking a picture with my phone since I have no help here)

During the day, If I walk into the yard and stop, it stays on me for maybe 10 seconds then returns to where the red box is. Where nothing is?? Confusing.
Its supposed to stay locked on me for 5 minutes right? Even when Im stopped or moving a little?

At night, if you look above the right window, I have a bullet camera with IR lights. Not sure if that is affecting anything her. I have attached a couple pics where it shows me entering the frame but then doesn't track me at all

Night is worse in that it rarely tracks me.

On day or night, If I stare at the camera it seems to do better tracking but worse at night

Also, I am not sure if the updated firmware is correct. Is this actually the latest version of the firmware? Its never updated. I bought the camera from Andy.
SD49425XB-HNR


Any insight would be great.
It will only track when moving. If you stop and there is no movement, within about 10 seconds or so it will reset.

DO NOT UPDATE THE FIRMWARE - if you do you will lose autotracking. Dahua removed autotracking on this camera.

As you are seeing, these are not plug-n-play and a lot of variables come into play to determine its accuracy of tracking. Have you made the suggested changes I posted earlier about dialing them in and getting them off of auto/default settings. Running default 50 down the middle for everything will result in problems at night.

IR from another camera can certainly alter the tracking ability.

Post some videos as stills only convey so much.
 

Michael James

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You had mentioned something about brightness and contrast being 10 points apart?. I thought I made this change but now doesnt seem like it stuck. What was that suggestion?
 
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