Seeking some guidance choosing first home camera setup

Thank you very much for all the information provided, it is very helpful.

The truth is that I'm crazy looking among so many references!

The only thing that is completely clear to me right now is that I have to buy a 2MP camera, I don't need a 2.8mm fixed to be varifocal, that's how I finally positioned the REOLINK RLC811 with 5x optical zoom.

In my case I had selected a bullet type camera since it goes to the wall and is more comfortable to install. In the case of the options that you are providing me, I would have to purchase the PFB203W wall adapter.

Of the models that you are recommending to me, I am looking for the versions that I can find in Spain for purchase locally.

Specifically, the model recommended by Sebastian 3241T-ZAS, I have been looking for it in the FIXED LENS version. (2.8mm)

DH-IPC-HDW3241TM-AS

Prices in Spain: 107$

In the model recommended by Wittaj
IPC-T5241H-AS-PV

I find the version accessible.
DH-IPC-HDW5241TM-AS

Price in Spain: $118

Although as they seem to indicate on the web it is an OBSOLETE model.

Your recommended model is also already cataloged as EOL.

The point that worries me the most is the AI, I'm crazy between so much DAHUA marketing, what if SMD PLUS, SMD 3.0, WIZsense, Wizmind!

I'm not going to integrate solutions like Frigate with AI supported by Edge TPU like CORAL at the moment. And I would like to have the technology integrated into Dahua's own latest camera.

Thanks again for your selfless help! It will be more difficult now to communicate with the time difference. I will wait patiently for your advice.
 
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Hi EMPIRETECANDY, thanks for the suggestion. This option escapes me somewhat from the budget I had assigned. To buy from Spain, it is better to do it with Aliexpress, which includes customs and transport fees. As you can see, they are €183 = $183 approx.

What I am not clear about is this camera, which IA in terms of DAHUA marketing has. It doesn't seem to be clear in the documentation. (SMD PLUS, SMD 3.0, wizsense, wizmind!!)

Dahua also marks it as Obsolete (EOL)


The current model seems to be this, which is WIZMIND and SMD3.0

IPC-HDW5442TM-ASE


1661151010611.png
 
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SMD PLUS, SMD 3.0, WIZsense, Wizmind are all marketing terms created by Dahua.

If the camera says AI then you are good to go.

You only need the junction box if you don't have the ability to shove the cable back into the wall or soffit. Whether it is a bullet camera or turret it would be the same thing.
 
SMD PLUS, SMD 3.0, WIZsense, Wizmind are all marketing terms created by Dahua.

If the camera says AI then you are good to go.

You only need the junction box if you don't have the ability to shove the cable back into the wall or soffit. Whether it is a bullet camera or turret it would be the same thing.
Thanks again for your prompt responses!

Yes, I already know all that from what I have studied.

But the SMD 3.0 versions have an improved algorithm, and the WizMind are cameras with at least 512mb ram with more AI possibilities, like some examples I've seen of mask detection.

Here an example


Right now, my choice would be for benefits / price, it would be your recommendation


But if possible the new version, which I can not find in Spain


It seems that the main improvement is
2 (IR light); 2 (warm light)

I can't find any other difference.

Also the curious thing is that the new model HDW5241H-ASE-PV says in the data sheet that it has face detection and the model HDW5241H-ASE-PV even being SMD 3.0 does not say to do it.

It really is a real headache! ;)
 
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You only need the junction box if you don't have the ability to shove the cable back into the wall or soffit. Whether it is a bullet camera or turret it would be the same thing.
I was kinda wondering about this too. What situation would require a JB then, brick or something?
I saw a pipe mount junction box on the empiretec amazon store. Am I right in thinking one would probably run pvc conduit along a wall and/or up the pipe, then offset (or flexi) over into the JB on the pipe mount, and fish wires to it? I was thinking of something like this mount but only just now tried to imagine the cable actually making its way there, safely/neatly.
 
A junction box is more secure for waterproofing and many like them for easier swapping of cameras.

With a few camera exceptions, most do not have the free space to tuck cables in, so you need either a junction box or shove them back in the wall. Most put on their own connectors, so they need a tiny hole and then they cannot shove the cabling back into the wall. But if you wanna drill a big enough opening to shove it in and waterproof the connection with dielectric grease and self adhering tape, many do that as well.
 
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Most put on their own connectors, so they need a tiny hole and then they cannot shove the cabling back into the wall
You're referring to them running bulk network cable, through a hole only just big enough for it's diameter, and then terminating with rj45 connector once it's through to the outside? (and then not being able to push that rj45 connector back in through the small hole when they attempt to mount the camera over that small hole? Or did I misunderstand that?

But if you wanna drill a big enough opening to shove it in and waterproof the connection with dielectric grease and self adhering tape, many do that as well.
What is the "it" in this scentence? The connector they've crimped on?

I like the idea of being able to easier change and swap cameras out. I can see me wanting or needing to do that.

btw, I did intend on making my own cable/terminations.
I hope to start a dedicated thread for this soon. Just trying to get some of the info I need to provide the forum with to better help me help myself.
 
You're referring to them running bulk network cable, through a hole only just big enough for it's diameter, and then terminating with rj45 connector once it's through to the outside? (and then not being able to push that rj45 connector back in through the small hole when they attempt to mount the camera over that small hole? Or did I misunderstand that?


What is the "it" in this scentence? The connector they've crimped on?

I like the idea of being able to easier change and swap cameras out. I can see me wanting or needing to do that.

btw, I did intend on making my own cable/terminations.
I hope to start a dedicated thread for this soon. Just trying to get some of the info I need to provide the forum with to better help me help myself.

That is correct, those buying and running bulk network cable are wanting to minimize the hole size they need to drill.

The it in the sentence shove it in refers to not only their connector they added, but the even larger connector that is on the end of the camera and any associated wires. Crimping your own ends you can probably drill 1/8 to 1/4 inch hole whereas you need 1/2 to 3/4" hole depending on the connection end of the camera.
 
The cameras come with a "waterproof" housing to use over the connectors. The female side, camera side, is in a precast plastic housing. The male side is also a precast piece that has grommets for the cable end and the mating to the female side of things. Those need a 3/4" or larger hole for clearance. While they're not really all that waterproof they do help and should be used even with a junction box.
 
Thanks again for your prompt responses!

Yes, I already know all that from what I have studied.

But the SMD 3.0 versions have an improved algorithm, and the WizMind are cameras with at least 512mb ram with more AI possibilities, like some examples I've seen of mask detection.

Here an example


Right now, my choice would be for benefits / price, it would be your recommendation


But if possible the new version, which I can not find in Spain


It seems that the main improvement is
2 (IR light); 2 (warm light)

I can't find any other difference.

Also the curious thing is that the new model HDW5241H-ASE-PV says in the data sheet that it has face detection and the model HDW5241H-ASE-PV even being SMD 3.0 does not say to do it.

It really is a real headache! ;)


Hi @isabido

Remember to drop Andy ( EmpireTecAndy here ) a line .. he has been able to get Dahua OEM international products to many EU countries iirc ..

Many of us in the USA enjoy the variety of Dahua OEM products he can get to us .. and recommend him ( he is one of the recommended vendors here at ipcamtalk .. others iirc are USA based )
 
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Thanks Mat, Andy recommended an option to me but it escapes me in price. and the anniversary discounts on AliExpress are not as good as on their website. I have a very good price in Spain and with a guarantee, I would love to buy from Andy and thus help the forum. Right now I'm trying to get the right model right, it has to be 2mp with 2.8 lens bidirectional audio and with the most advanced AI options I can afford.
 
Just keep in mind that "bidirectional audio" on an IP camera is generally simplex, like a walkie talkie, and not full duple like a telephone.
 
What is your use case that requires the most advanced AI options you can afford?

Face detection is gimmicky. Some of the advanced AI is gimmicky like the one seeing if someone is holding a mobile phone LOL.

My IPC-T5241H-AS-PV, which is a first generation AI catches people with or without a mask or barely a face or person even showing...



1661194389914.png

And as @sebastiantombs points out, the two-way audio is walkie talkie like. You press the mic button and talk and then let go so you can hear the next person. Most of us with two-way audio never use it outside of the initial play period with it.
 
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@wittaj

Honestly it's for "playing", I really think that the only thing I would need is a perimeter like the one I have drawn in the image, and a good recognition of people with the minimum possible failures.

Without the recognition of people's faces working correctly as it seems to be in this video, it would be fun for example to automatically disarm the alarm. Or other types of automations that I can think of to integrate with HomeAssistant.



From what I understand, this can be done by any 5 series camera with Wizmind and SMD 3.0.

Regarding bidirectional audio, in the case of my RCL-811A it has a delay of at least 1.5 sec, but it can be "used" for an emergency.

This is the image that my Reolink RCL-811A throws up in full sunlight.

1661202743142.png
 
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I'd say save your money LOL. The gimmicky of glasses, smile, etc. is just that LOL.

For basic human or vehicle AI, the original AI in the Dahua cams is more than enough.

I guarantee you that you do not want to be using facial recognition to arm/disarm or lock/unlock stuff. Way to easy to fool.

If you really want it for facial recognition like to identify specific people, most of us have found that facial recognition is more gimmicky and novelty than anything else. If you have to put in 5 or 10 or 15 or 35 pictures or more of yourself in the system for it to recognize it is you...then you shouldn't expect much.... My success rate was under 5% so I moved on to other things LOL.

It can work in certain situations like a business that requires everyone to stop in front of the camera and the camera is at head height. Outside of that, the percentage of being accurate is probably not going to be super high. You will get a lot of false "confirmations" doing a search.

Someone here posted once how horrible it was inside his house identifying his neighbors and others as him. Another guy his kids and wife were being tagged as him.

Unless you spend the big bucks that casinos and airports have LOL.

Heck even in ideal situations like a business with the camera at ideal height and optimal lighting it fails....

 
Thank you very much @wittaj, you have convinced me not to continue wasting time looking at "movie stuff"

Finally, it would be among the economic option proposed by Sebastian, in a 2.8mm fixed lens version.

IPC-HDW3241TM-AS

and the one recommended by you,
IPC-HDW5241H-AS-PV


Here you can see the difference in prices, which one would you decide for?

I hope I don't regret returning the RLC-811A, the truth is that with light the image looks great. It has a very powerful front lighting, and the IR too.
1661208342710.png
 
The two cameras from a video standpoint will perform the same. It comes down to do you want the active deterrence and two way talk. That is basically the differences between the two.

What Reolinks make up for in Daytime, they are horrible at night, especially with motion. Any camera can look great at night for a static image. Motion is what we need to capture.

What you mean a missing hand isn't normal LOL :lmao:

1661208756301.png

How about missing everything but the head and upper torso :lmao:

The invisible man, where can he be. Thank goodness he is carrying around a reflective plate to see where he is LOL (hint - the person is literally in the middle of the image at the end of the fence)

I've seen better images on an episode of ghost hunters :lmao:

1661208790262.png

And of course, this is an example from Reolink's marketing videos - do you see a person in this picture...yes, there is a person in this picture.... Could this provide anything useful for the police other than the date and time something happened? Would this protect your home? The still picture looks great though except for the person and the blur of the vehicle... Will give you a hint - the person is in between the two visible columns:

1661208826968.png

Bad Boys
Bad Boys
Watcha gonna do
Watcha gonna do
When the camera can't see you


Check out this thread:

 
Hi guys! I'm about to go crazy, my camera has arrived. I'm trying to apply IVS, and I can't get any rules to work. I see in some setup videos that the rulers have to show blue. Mine are always green!

1661606331816.png1661606351579.png

I'm sure it will be silly, but it's driving me crazy!
 
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Remember the camera needs to see the object and determine if it is something that should trigger or not.

So in the first one, the table can be blocking below the knees and not trigger - but more so, check the object filter box and select human.

Did you enable Smart Plan?

Also, you need to think 3-D not 2-D. The object has to have half of the object pass the tripwire, which won't happen in your case. Try it vertical or an intrusion box.

The missing object looks like it could be dark on dark, so play with the brightness and contrast.

Are you using Internet Explorer?