Sooo Honeywell L7000 panel...

wantafastz28

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That is the plan, i want to get away from the company when the contract is up and maintain on my own. Until then I'm hoping to learn the stuff I need to know, such as finding a company that works for me that u just listed, why a Vista is better than a lynx, etc... thanks again for the info! Now I gotta play catch up and do some reading.
 

zero-degrees

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The Lynx systems from Honeywell serve a purpose and shouldn't be written off.

First, this series was brought to market as an option to simply install in preexisting structures as well as an affordable option for the DIY market. Does it have disadvantages - yes. However most things for the DIY market do present tradeoffs, however, you have to weigh needs vs. wants as well as the desired outcome of said project.

The lynx systems provide a quick and easy solution for most users wanting an affordable alarm solution without a contract that may be installed by the home owner.

Let's address a big misconception on how the Lynx alarm works in a non monitored vs. monitored environment

My next question was gonna be if there was a way to find out if this is the alarm type that sends out a command once it is triggered, and another when i put in my code.... but from what I'm reading with you guys... it is the type that they can smash, and im SOL.
  • The self contained system may be smashed disabling it. While the unit is self contained this is NO different than a traditional alarm in how it may be "disabled" IF the system is "Self Monitored". If you enter a home with a self contained system that is self monitored you can smash the keypad/main touch panel to stop the alarm sounding. If you enter a home with a hardwired "Self Monitored" system you can simply smash the keypad and siren to stop the alarm sounding as the siren is mounted inside the home, near an entry point 99% of the time. So regardless if a Vista Series or Lynx system both can be silenced fairly quickly. Now as it relates to Monitored systems - The Lynx panels in a monitored environment send two signals to the monitoring station - one as soon as a sensor is tripped (as soon as the door opens) then send a followup up Disarm signal once the disarm code has been entered. So even if an intruder enters and smashes the panel the monitoring center will still receive the initial signal and when the disarm signal is not received a dispatch needed alarm will signal.

I have personally installed 15p, 20p, Lynx 5100 and 7000 series alarms. Each system has it's advantages and disadvantages obviously. My personal favorite is the Vista 20P. A lot of Geeky tech's will say "It's old and out dated" because it isn't a cool touch screen however it is a great piece of hardware that is tried and true with a proven track record. However, if you have a full understanding of each system you will find you can make most work regardless of the situation.

Also, National alarm companies have gone to the Lynx series because a Monkey can perform the install. Meaning the guy with little to no training going door to door doing sales can also perform the install.

Their are a lot more videos and quick guides available than the few listed above. Just spend 20 min. on Google searching Lynx 5100/7000 programming and you'll have all the resources you need to get your alarm operating like you want it to.
 
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wantafastz28

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Will do @zero-degrees , and thanks. My concern is my garage entry way which is where this panel is at. I asked for garage door sensors but he said he doesnt install them because they give off too many false alarms.....buuuut the problem is, the power supply/transformer is in the garage, and panel greets you immediately at the door, the battery is on the wall behind the panel. I feel if i wanted to break into my own house, with one walk through of it, I could do it with ease. Also, I have unfortunately left the house and left the garage door open a few times.


Im still working on getting my bearings as to what is what. 20170129_085927.jpg 20170129_084528.jpg The resolution products is the new board he installed, I'm assuming it's the translator for the wireless sensors he had to install(additional PIR, smoke detector, 1 door sensor). Still working on the existing panel that is in the box. That was there before he came, which looks like it obviously hooks up to the wireless sensors...any numbers i get off it pops up the relay or chip brand instead of the whole board. I dont see a cellphone module of any kind, so I'm assuming it is in the lynx panel somewhere. I'll get to opening that once i get the research read and videos watched.
 

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spencnor

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I have personally installed 15p, 20p, Lynx 5100 and 7000 series alarms. Each system has it's advantages and disadvantages obviously. My personal favorite is the Vista 20P. A lot of Geeky tech's will say "It's old and out dated" because it isn't a cool touch screen however it is a great piece of hardware that is tried and true with a proven track record.
+1. Check out YouTube, Bounder97, for an excellent diy video tutorial on the Vista 20p system. I installed the 20p with additional zone expander panels and Bosch tri-tech (pet-friendly) motion detectors. If you use a Vista keypad with a wireless transmitter you can use wireless sensors. I also added magnetic wide-gap contacts to my garage doors and programmed them as a "Vent" zone. The vent zone allows the garage door to be open when arming and then protected when it closes. I'm very satisfied with this system. Many new Honeywell Vista panels and components readily available on eBay.

BTW, @wantafastz28 I just noticed the picture of your panel looks like a Adempco/Honeywell Vista panel.
 
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zero-degrees

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@wantafastz28

The device with the batteries in it that was mounted outside the alarm panel is the Wired Zone to Wireless transmitter. Basically this takes the info from the wired zones and sends it to the Lynx Panel wirelessly.

The GSM dialer with Sim Card is inside the Lynx Panel. If you open the main control panel it is mounted inside with a single screw and the sim card is connected their, it just has a basic bridge/connector that connects and powers it off the main panel.

As for the garage sensor - Honeywell makes a wireless Tilt Sensor - I've only used it once and I never had an issue with it. Be aware though you'll have to factor this into your setup. For example the garage can't be open when you go to set the alarm as it will show a fault (you can bypass it and set it, but that is just more steps) Also, when you arrive home and the door goes up the alarm trip will occur, so you'll have to factor that into your wait/alarm time. For example most people set entry to like 10 or 15 seconds meaning you have 10 seconds before alarm sounds when first triggered. I don't know about you but by the time the door goes all the way up, i get out, get the kids out, and head inside I'd need like a 2 min delay, which totally defeats the purpose because if someone kicks in the front door they'll have 2 free minutes... This is why I dislike the garage sensors. HOWEVER, you set them as passive so you simply use them to view the status of the door (fault is open, closed is closed), or you could make that zone only active when armed "stay", so its only enabled at night while asleep when everyone is home... Just a few ideas.

The other possibility since you have left before with the door open is to look into something like the Chamberland MyQ wireless garage control system which will allow you to see the status of your garage door (open/closed) as well as open or close it remotely so if you did leave it open, you can close it via your smart phone. While an alarm sensor will only tell you if it's open or closed, and still require you to return home to correct the problem.

The main alarm box is an older hardwired system control board with limited features/power support. The wires that still are connected are the battery and most likely the wiring for the old control panel (possibly had 2? Hard to tell without a closer pic). Also the fact that a heat sync and larger processor is missing suggests it being an older model - most new controller boards have large heat syncs to handle larger power loads/draws for numerous zones/key pads as well as a larger processor to handle data.

As for opening up the Lynx panel - their won't be much to see honestly. You'r going to have your main power cable that goes to the main board and then your cell dialer, and thats about it. Really isn't anything to adjust or mess with inside that self contained unit.

Bonus to all this is all your wired sensors are still intact at the main box. You already have power at the box to power a panel/battery if you put in a new system. So once your contract is up if you want to order a 20P system off eBay you can for $75 to $200 depending on what all you want with it in way of additional keypads/sensors etc. At which time you can look at a product called Eyezon if you want to self monitor with remote/mobile control with no monthly fee's. EyezOn | Internet Enabled Home And Business Security Alarms For Smart Phones or if you want monitored you can look at something like alarm relay or alarm grid depending on the features/support you want.

Good Luck! At the very least you are advancing your knowledge around the technology that is already in your home!
 

zero-degrees

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BTW, @wantafastz28 I just noticed the picture of your panel looks like a Adempco/Honeywell Vista panel.
Thats not like any Vista Rev board I've ever seen. The Vista series (At least for the last 5 years I know of) all have heat sinks on the left side of the board for heat distribution. Also Honeywell has used blue capacitors on their boards as far back as I can remember. The final note is that Honeywell places the controller module in the center of the Vista boards and this one appears to be placed in the top right.

Not saying 100% it isn't without seeing an up close pic of the board - but saying it isn't likely to be based on my interaction with them and what I know of them over the years.
 

tangent

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The panel looks different because it's a brinks panel it's made by Honeywell but it isn't a 20P.

My concern is my garage entry way which is where this panel is at. I asked for garage door sensors but he said he doesnt install them because they give off too many false alarms.....buuuut the problem is, the power supply/transformer is in the garage, and panel greets you immediately at the door, the battery is on the wall behind the panel.
I can understand them not wanting to monitor the garage door, there's a high potential for user error generated false alarms (which describes most false alarms). @zero-degrees has good suggestions, the simplest is just to use it to alert you to the state of the door by adding a sensor and setting it to "garage monitor" you could use a tilt sensor or a wired garage door contact on the wired loop of a wireless door sensor.

I'd set up something to automatically close the garage door.
For craftsman/liftmaster/chamberlain openers with a red-orange or purple learn button (1998-2011): Liftmaster 888LM Security+ 2.0 MyQ Wall Control Upgrades Previous Models 1998 (and later) - Garage Door Openers - Amazon.com
For craftsman/liftmaster/chamberlain openers with a yellow learn button made after 2011: Amazon.com: Liftmaster 880lm Smart Control Panel: Home Improvement
There are other options for other openers, note all of these emit warning beeps before closing the door.

If you put a camera in the garage by the door inside, if anybody wanders in the garage you'll get a nice photo.
 
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wantafastz28

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Once again, thanks to all of you, I'm trying to sponge all this up and more. It's good to know at least what direction to start at in the sense of, garage door sensors, which panels to start looking at feature wise, etc. Ultimately I think a camera or maybe even 2 might be the route to go for the garage door, I'm sure i could setup a missing object settings with IVS to alert me if the garage doors are open for so long. Lots of reading for me to do when I take breaks from running all the ethernet cable throughout the house. :)
 

wantafastz28

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I'd set up something to automatically close the garage door.
For craftsman/liftmaster/chamberlain openers with a red-orange or purple learn button (1998-2011): Liftmaster 888LM Security+ 2.0 MyQ Wall Control Upgrades Previous Models 1998 (and later) - Garage Door Openers - Amazon.com
For craftsman/liftmaster/chamberlain openers with a yellow learn button made after 2011: Amazon.com: Liftmaster 880lm Smart Control Panel: Home Improvement
There are other options for other openers, note all of these emit warning beeps before closing the door.

If you put a camera in the garage by the door inside, if anybody wanders in the garage you'll get a nice photo.

And that's why you guys are awesome... didn't even know these existed. This + cameras will be the route i go.
 
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tangent

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And that's why you guys are awesome... didn't even know these existed. This + cameras will be the route i go.
They do have some loud warning beeps before the door auto closes. NOTE: the 888LM is usually a bit less and currently marketplace sellers are the cheapest at ~$32

I'd probably still put a wireless alarm sensor on the door, either the 5822T tilt sensor or a 5816 with an overhead door contact wired up to loop 1.
HONEYWELL 5816WHWH | eBay use a 5817XT if you have double doors it supports multiple contacts.
+ something like one of these at the top of the door:
Interlogix 2202U Series Magnetic Surface Mount Overhead Door Floor Mount Contact | eBay
Honeywell Ademco 958 Overhead Door Contacts, A.k.a RS-51B Dual Reed, FREE S/H | eBay

Did you get your keyfobs working?
I'd check to see if the zwave module is installed in your lynx panel, if not you can buy one for around $30. You'd have to look into what you can do, but there's probably some utiliy.
HONEYWELL L5100-ZWAVE MODULE FOR LYNX TOUCH L5100 L5200 L5100ZWAVE ADEMCO NEW
 
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wantafastz28

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I haven't yet.... Today was dedicated to running wires through the house...everything that could go wrong, did go wrong... fish rods stuck/broke in the wall, drill bit came off the extension, cable jacket peeling off the attachment point while pulling(im not even pulling that hard).... I was going to get a battery tomorrow, and start from there.
 

tangent

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I haven't yet.... Today was dedicated to running wires through the house...everything that could go wrong, did go wrong... fish rods stuck/broke in the wall, drill bit came off the extension, cable jacket peeling off the attachment point while pulling(im not even pulling that hard).... I was going to get a battery tomorrow, and start from there.
 

tangent

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They do actually make lubricants for pulling cable.
I haven't yet.... Today was dedicated to running wires through the house...everything that could go wrong, did go wrong... fish rods stuck/broke in the wall, drill bit came off the extension, cable jacket peeling off the attachment point while pulling(im not even pulling that hard).... I was going to get a battery tomorrow, and start from there.
that sucks. When using extension / flex bits I try to use an AC powered drill, still some cursing is usually involved. Don't forget to wear your safety glasses!
Here's a guide you should read: How to: In-Wall Wiring for Your Home Theater - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com
I have some other good resources on running cable but I'm not finding the links to at the moment.

Tell us a bit more about your background and how you're trying to run the cables and you'll get better advice :)
 

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wantafastz28

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Eh, I've done many wire pulls(thousands) back in my day... did wireless Internet installs followed by being a cable guy, and IT contracting for charter schools and dr.s offices for about 8 years before I got completely burnt out and did a career change. Just getting some of the rust off since it has been a few years. Much rather be doing power lines. :)
 

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start using it on the dumbass newbies and maybe they wont scream and cry so much then :p
 

tangent

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Eh, I've done many wire pulls(thousands) back in my day... did wireless Internet installs followed by being a cable guy, and IT contracting for charter schools and dr.s offices for about 8 years before I got completely burnt out and did a career change. Just getting some of the rust off since it has been a few years. Much rather be doing power lines. :)
You've probably pulled more wire than me. Commercial buildings with drop ceiling and metal studs are a different ball game than residential houses. I imagine you want to avoid the typical cable installer's wrap the cable 6 times around the entire perimeter of the house on your own home.

Your flex bit might be a bit dull. If you don't own a Magnepull see if you can borrow one from a friend.
Also don't forget about Labor Saving Devices
 
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