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Sweet! LTS is releasing an ONVIF compatible doorbell with SD card slot and 940nm IR

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If people are trying to figure out 2-way audio on blue iris, I think I found the answer in this video's comments -
1. Go to camera properties
2. Go to the video tab and select configure
3. Change the Make to HikVision and the model to DS-2CDxxxRTSP
4. Change the path to /h264/ch01/main/av_stream
5. RTSP Port should be 554 and ONVIF Port should be 80

Boy oh boy, I just cant figure this out. I followed these directions exactly, yet I can get BI on my Samsung S10 5G phone to work. I can hear anyone at the front door great, but when I try to talk to them, nothing comes out. The RCA Security android app works great with 2 way communication. My Foscam cameras work perfectly with 2 way communication. Im thinking I am missing something basic? Im using 15 FPS. I also watched this video: Loudspeaker volume is at 10. Microphone at 10. HSDB1 model. Device version 1.4.62 build 171127 (No newer version avaialble). Do I have to port forward something? I woudlnt think so since the RCA app works 2 way. I also tried ONVIF port 8999. Any other tabs in BI I need to change?
 

0658

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I have a LTS doorbell problem. Everything works as expected with Blue Iris however when the doorbell looses wireless connectivity it issues one ding at any time night or day. My wife and I have just about got to the point where we ignore the doorbell and are about to remove the doorbell from the system. It stays disconnected for about 30 seconds then reconnects and works normally.

1. No, it is not the wireless router, I have the latest Netgear X-10 Night Hawk router about 15 feet away
2. I have a high end Netgear Nighthawk range Extender about 20 feet away.
3. I have no wireless issues with any other wireless device.
4. All my LTS cameras (13 of them) work flawlessly with Blue Iris, even a (one) LTS wireless cube camera twice as far away.
5. I have removed the camera from the system and reset the camera software twice.
6 . I put in a new Transformer about 2 years ago; the door bell rings even when disconnected from the wireless.

Question

A. Am I missing anything?
B. Is there any way to stop the ding when it looses connectivity? I don't mind the loss of connectivity, only the unnecessary ding.

(concerning FPS topic from above, I get between 10 and 12 FPS)

Thank you for any suggestions.
 

aesterling

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I have a LTS doorbell problem. Everything works as expected with Blue Iris however when the doorbell looses wireless connectivity it issues one ding at any time night or day. My wife and I have just about got to the point where we ignore the doorbell and are about to remove the doorbell from the system. It stays disconnected for about 30 seconds then reconnects and works normally.

1. No, it is not the wireless router, I have the latest Netgear X-10 Night Hawk router about 15 feet away
2. I have a high end Netgear Nighthawk range Extender about 20 feet away.
3. I have no wireless issues with any other wireless device.
4. All my LTS cameras (13 of them) work flawlessly with Blue Iris, even a (one) LTS wireless cube camera twice as far away.
5. I have removed the camera from the system and reset the camera software twice.
6 . I put in a new Transformer about 2 years ago; the door bell rings even when disconnected from the wireless.

Question

A. Am I missing anything?
B. Is there any way to stop the ding when it looses connectivity? I don't mind the loss of connectivity, only the unnecessary ding.

(concerning FPS topic from above, I get between 10 and 12 FPS)

Thank you for any suggestions.
Sounds like it could be a power issue to me - either the transformer, circuit, or wiring? I also have some problems with this model, but the only time it "dings" the chime is when it loses power and restarts.
 
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firmware update? defective unit?
Transformer: test the output.

Easiest thing is to replace the unit, youre spending a lot of timechasing an issue which seems really odd.
 

Skinsfan

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I have a LTS doorbell problem. Everything works as expected with Blue Iris however when the doorbell looses wireless connectivity it issues one ding at any time night or day. My wife and I have just about got to the point where we ignore the doorbell and are about to remove the doorbell from the system. It stays disconnected for about 30 seconds then reconnects and works normally.

I had the same problem. Only mine would reboot over and over and almost always it was between midnight and 2-3am. And it would reboot loop about 6-8 times, dinging the chime each time, and then finally connect. It would did this at least 2-3 times for 2 weeks. Needless to say, I stopped that crap! I have now replaced it with the RCA 3MP doorbell camera which is much improved and easier to set up BUT I have been having undervoltage issues and am presently chasing that. It clearly needs more power than the old doorbell and I have upped the voltage from 16V to 24V and still am having undervoltage issues (thinking I might need to go higher than 24V 20VA). Still trying to figure that one out and still have my mechanical chimes working with it.
 

0658

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Taking the suggestions you both gave me and using it for more research, you seem to be right about the transformer issue. It seems as if the doorbells do need more power. Somewhere back in this thread there was a recommendation for a transformer on Amazon saying that 10 ma is not enough to reliably power a video doorbell. Sure enough that is the power of my transformer. After looking at the reviews on Amazon it seems as very many people are having this exact issue especially with Ring doorbells. I have ordered a new transformer thanks to your diagnosis./ I will also update the firmware when I change the transformer. Thank you very much.
 

RyanODan

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I had the same problem. Only mine would reboot over and over and almost always it was between midnight and 2-3am. And it would reboot loop about 6-8 times, dinging the chime each time, and then finally connect. It would did this at least 2-3 times for 2 weeks. Needless to say, I stopped that crap! I have now replaced it with the RCA 3MP doorbell camera which is much improved and easier to set up BUT I have been having undervoltage issues and am presently chasing that. It clearly needs more power than the old doorbell and I have upped the voltage from 16V to 24V and still am having undervoltage issues (thinking I might need to go higher than 24V 20VA). Still trying to figure that one out and still have my mechanical chimes working with it.
Did you install the power booster that comes with the doorbell? If not, that should help and may completely resolve the problem.
 

Netwalker

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I just picked one of these up from a local brick and mortar for $149 (RCA Branded). Configuration was pretty fast after scanning this thread for the tricks, and overall I'm happy with it. Here's what worked for me. Most of these are mentioned throughout the thread, but I figured I'd consolidate them in one post:

This took me about 1 hour total from opening the box, through app setup, and into getting it working in BI.

When installing, I needed a shim on one side (small piece of wood), because the camera is wider than the smooth spot on my door frame. The remaining gap above and below the shim was caulked once all the config and testing was done.

Before you put the cover on, take a picture of the front sticker as you'll need the verification code.

My existing builder grade doorbell transformer seems sufficient. I can't quote the MA rating, however I'm sure it's the cheapest one available going by the theme of the rest of the unaltered builder grade crap here.

Make sure your phone is connected to the 2.4ghz wifi network (5ghz is not supported) you plan to use before using the RCA app to configure wifi. (Setup will go smoother.)

The username is admin and the password is admin + verification code ie. "adminCODE". Make sure you type it correctly. I only got two tries before it ip banned one of my computers for over an hour (even though it said 30 minutes...)

The camera hosted admin web page is bare bones & stripped down hikivision. No static IP settings are available. In fact about the only thing worth while changing here is the OSD settings. I setup my router to assign a static address to this specific device via DHCP.

In BI, first use the find/inspect button, then copy the stream path. Next select Hikivision from the dropdown and then ds-2cdxxxxRSTP from the other dropdown. Then paste what you copied from the stream path when you used find/inspect. While you're in the camera settings, select "decoder compatibility mode" to solve a low framerate issue.

Unsolved, but might be phone related is that my "talk" audio sounds like a robot from the BI iPhone app. Audio is great in the RCA app.

A corner of my brick siding is close to the camera and reflected ir blows out the image at night. I'll probably have to open it up and cut the led at some point.
 
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0658

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Thank you to everyone that pointed me towards the transformer causing my disconnect problems. Naturally nothing goes as smoothly as hoped; the first transformer from Amazon was DOA (causing a lot of inconvenience). I bought a second transformer 24 v / 40 va after checking the specs of the LTS doorbell to ensure that it operated within those specs.

I had been having ongoing connectivity issues with the builder grade transformer (16 V / 10 VA), in fact I had lost all connectivity. By the time I got everything reconnected and went to BI to check for connectivity, the LTS Doorbell had reconnected to BI. Hopefully it will stay that way.

Now if I could figure a way to make the night infrared less terrible.
 

Netwalker

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I just looked at mine. It’s a 50va surprisingly. There must have been a sale.

I’m lowering my “likeability“ for this camera. It’s under a covered porch and on sunny days, since there’s no blc setting, everything in the foreground is dark. When it’s dark, it’s blown out by its own ir. Basically it’s turing out to be a really expensive ir light for other cameras + doorbell button + speakerphone.
 

BeerNut

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I paid $50 for mine and even at that price I wouldn't recommend. I would suggest you unplug the IR if you have sufficient lighting near your doorbell.
 

Ron C

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I have been browsing through this thread,it's a very long one. Did anyone ever use this doorbell without the app or nvr? I have a linux box detecting the motion (there is an FTP setup, where one can customize the FTP settings, and the doorbell will put time stamped snapshots in a location you set up.)

There are a few things that I can find in sorta (but not really) ONVIF way. I was hoping to find out how to actually detect the "button press", someone actually ringing the bell, event.
(of course when someone presses the doorbell chime button, there is also motion detected.)

I am trying to hunt down the details of the ISAPI and CGI interface (and the SDK didn't help much so far).

any hints/pointers?

thanks,

Ron
 

Chura

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I'm looking for some kind of bracket that will allow few degree of rotation.
My door in red, my doorbell in orange.I want to give it little angle so it will have better view.
Anything like it of the shelf or I will need to make one ?
 

xraycat

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69ragtop

n3wb
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For those having wifi connectivity problems or the doorbell rebooting, or anything else that may be transformer power related...

All of my problems went away when I replaced the builder grade 16V 10VA transformer with this 16V 30VA transformer:

NuTone C907 16V, 30VA Transformer

The 30VA transformer was bigger (no surprise) so it was a tight fit into the box behind the chimes (how my builder did it).

I believe the VA rating is more important than the voltage. I would choose a 16V 30VA over a 24V 20VA. The VA is a power rating.
 
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