Sweet! LTS is releasing an ONVIF compatible doorbell with SD card slot and 940nm IR

I have a LTS doorbell problem. Everything works as expected with Blue Iris however when the doorbell looses wireless connectivity it issues one ding at any time night or day. My wife and I have just about got to the point where we ignore the doorbell and are about to remove the doorbell from the system. It stays disconnected for about 30 seconds then reconnects and works normally.


I had the same problem. Only mine would reboot over and over and almost always it was between midnight and 2-3am. And it would reboot loop about 6-8 times, dinging the chime each time, and then finally connect. It would did this at least 2-3 times for 2 weeks. Needless to say, I stopped that crap! I have now replaced it with the RCA 3MP doorbell camera which is much improved and easier to set up BUT I have been having undervoltage issues and am presently chasing that. It clearly needs more power than the old doorbell and I have upped the voltage from 16V to 24V and still am having undervoltage issues (thinking I might need to go higher than 24V 20VA). Still trying to figure that one out and still have my mechanical chimes working with it.
 
Taking the suggestions you both gave me and using it for more research, you seem to be right about the transformer issue. It seems as if the doorbells do need more power. Somewhere back in this thread there was a recommendation for a transformer on Amazon saying that 10 ma is not enough to reliably power a video doorbell. Sure enough that is the power of my transformer. After looking at the reviews on Amazon it seems as very many people are having this exact issue especially with Ring doorbells. I have ordered a new transformer thanks to your diagnosis./ I will also update the firmware when I change the transformer. Thank you very much.
 
I had the same problem. Only mine would reboot over and over and almost always it was between midnight and 2-3am. And it would reboot loop about 6-8 times, dinging the chime each time, and then finally connect. It would did this at least 2-3 times for 2 weeks. Needless to say, I stopped that crap! I have now replaced it with the RCA 3MP doorbell camera which is much improved and easier to set up BUT I have been having undervoltage issues and am presently chasing that. It clearly needs more power than the old doorbell and I have upped the voltage from 16V to 24V and still am having undervoltage issues (thinking I might need to go higher than 24V 20VA). Still trying to figure that one out and still have my mechanical chimes working with it.

Did you install the power booster that comes with the doorbell? If not, that should help and may completely resolve the problem.
 
I just picked one of these up from a local brick and mortar for $149 (RCA Branded). Configuration was pretty fast after scanning this thread for the tricks, and overall I'm happy with it. Here's what worked for me. Most of these are mentioned throughout the thread, but I figured I'd consolidate them in one post:

This took me about 1 hour total from opening the box, through app setup, and into getting it working in BI.

When installing, I needed a shim on one side (small piece of wood), because the camera is wider than the smooth spot on my door frame. The remaining gap above and below the shim was caulked once all the config and testing was done.

Before you put the cover on, take a picture of the front sticker as you'll need the verification code.

My existing builder grade doorbell transformer seems sufficient. I can't quote the MA rating, however I'm sure it's the cheapest one available going by the theme of the rest of the unaltered builder grade crap here.

Make sure your phone is connected to the 2.4ghz wifi network (5ghz is not supported) you plan to use before using the RCA app to configure wifi. (Setup will go smoother.)

The username is admin and the password is admin + verification code ie. "adminCODE". Make sure you type it correctly. I only got two tries before it ip banned one of my computers for over an hour (even though it said 30 minutes...)

The camera hosted admin web page is bare bones & stripped down hikivision. No static IP settings are available. In fact about the only thing worth while changing here is the OSD settings. I setup my router to assign a static address to this specific device via DHCP.

In BI, first use the find/inspect button, then copy the stream path. Next select Hikivision from the dropdown and then ds-2cdxxxxRSTP from the other dropdown. Then paste what you copied from the stream path when you used find/inspect. While you're in the camera settings, select "decoder compatibility mode" to solve a low framerate issue.

Unsolved, but might be phone related is that my "talk" audio sounds like a robot from the BI iPhone app. Audio is great in the RCA app.

A corner of my brick siding is close to the camera and reflected ir blows out the image at night. I'll probably have to open it up and cut the led at some point.
 
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Thank you to everyone that pointed me towards the transformer causing my disconnect problems. Naturally nothing goes as smoothly as hoped; the first transformer from Amazon was DOA (causing a lot of inconvenience). I bought a second transformer 24 v / 40 va after checking the specs of the LTS doorbell to ensure that it operated within those specs.

I had been having ongoing connectivity issues with the builder grade transformer (16 V / 10 VA), in fact I had lost all connectivity. By the time I got everything reconnected and went to BI to check for connectivity, the LTS Doorbell had reconnected to BI. Hopefully it will stay that way.

Now if I could figure a way to make the night infrared less terrible.
 
I just looked at mine. It’s a 50va surprisingly. There must have been a sale.

I’m lowering my “likeability“ for this camera. It’s under a covered porch and on sunny days, since there’s no blc setting, everything in the foreground is dark. When it’s dark, it’s blown out by its own ir. Basically it’s turing out to be a really expensive ir light for other cameras + doorbell button + speakerphone.
 
I paid $50 for mine and even at that price I wouldn't recommend. I would suggest you unplug the IR if you have sufficient lighting near your doorbell.
 
I have been browsing through this thread,it's a very long one. Did anyone ever use this doorbell without the app or nvr? I have a linux box detecting the motion (there is an FTP setup, where one can customize the FTP settings, and the doorbell will put time stamped snapshots in a location you set up.)

There are a few things that I can find in sorta (but not really) ONVIF way. I was hoping to find out how to actually detect the "button press", someone actually ringing the bell, event.
(of course when someone presses the doorbell chime button, there is also motion detected.)

I am trying to hunt down the details of the ISAPI and CGI interface (and the SDK didn't help much so far).

any hints/pointers?

thanks,

Ron
 
I'm looking for some kind of bracket that will allow few degree of rotation.
My door in red, my doorbell in orange.I want to give it little angle so it will have better view.
Anything like it of the shelf or I will need to make one ?
upload_2019-7-9_12-52-30-png.44531
 
For those having wifi connectivity problems or the doorbell rebooting, or anything else that may be transformer power related...

All of my problems went away when I replaced the builder grade 16V 10VA transformer with this 16V 30VA transformer:

NuTone C907 16V, 30VA Transformer

The 30VA transformer was bigger (no surprise) so it was a tight fit into the box behind the chimes (how my builder did it).

I believe the VA rating is more important than the voltage. I would choose a 16V 30VA over a 24V 20VA. The VA is a power rating.
 
I'm getting security login blocked out of my db1 doorbell cam for 30 minutes when I reboot my Blue Iris PC. I think this started around the time I upgraded to BI 5.0. Anyone else have this problem? (I searched this forum and Google several times with no luck).

After PC reboot, camera shows offline in BI. And when I try to login via browser to camera it says something along the lines of "Security limit reached, please wait xx minutes". A half hour after reboot, the camera is back online in BI and I can login to camera via browser. I checked BI camera settings and the limited settings in the camera config.

Tried changing a few options like watchdog timeout duration, unchecked keep-alives etc but nothing mitigates this problem yet. Well, I can turn off power to the doorbell and then it connects fine when it powers back up.

Other than at PC reboot the doorbell camera never loses connection unless I reboot router or wifi access point of course.
 
I'm getting security login blocked out of my db1 doorbell cam for 30 minutes when I reboot my Blue Iris PC. I think this started around the time I upgraded to BI 5.0. Anyone else have this problem? (I searched this forum and Google several times with no luck).

Yes, I was performing system updates (Win 10) and a new update to v5 message popped up. So I updated BI and noticed that it didn't come on line in BI for about 20-30 mins.
 
Is there a way to know if someone ring the bell ? I would like to connect the doorbell to my smart home and send notification to the TV
to do that, I need some kind of API or MQTT to get the ring event. is it doable ?
 
Is there a way to know if someone ring the bell ? I would like to connect the doorbell to my smart home and send notification to the TV
to do that, I need some kind of API or MQTT to get the ring event. is it doable ?

1) You can do it easily on motion (but not ring AFAIK) with trigger in BI to IFTTT assuming your Smart home system is open to IFTTT. For example, I have an alert on the driveway camera in BI to, on motion trigger, send request to https://maker.ifttt.com/trigger/GarageLightOn/with/key/xyz.. which turns the garage light on, but could just as well announce/message. If I had smart home compatible TV I'm sure I could get the message on the TV (e.g. Samsung SmartThings compatible TV). IFTTT

2) I have a motion sensor on my porch with SmartThings. I setup something called Google Assistant Relay on a Raspberry PI and with a Smartapp from the github developer on smarthings. On porch motion, my Google home announces "motion on the porch" which is great when delivery drivers leave something but fail to ring the doorbell (60% of the time). I could just as easily have db1 doorbell camera motion in Blue Iris trigger the IFTTT webhook in 1) above. Fun to setup, but not easy or quick: braytonstafford/google-assistant-relay

3) I've had a Z-wave Mimolite (the smaller dry contact bridge) attached to my doorbell chime for about 5 years. It notifies SmartThings when doorbell rings. SmartThings messages us on phone and also announces on Google Home via method in 2) above which is great when kitchen cooking noise drowns out the doorbell chime. Here is where I got this idea from about 5 years ago A simple way to get alerts when your doorbell is rung