alexdelprete
Getting comfortable
No problem. Write me in PM. Hope I can help.I’ve been getting my feet wet with Hubitat, any chance we might be able to chat (via PM) about your setup?
No problem. Write me in PM. Hope I can help.I’ve been getting my feet wet with Hubitat, any chance we might be able to chat (via PM) about your setup?
Read your posts. I live in Italy. Am using a DB1 with no chime installed, just the SAGE sensor integrated with my Hubitat Elevation (HE) hub. Configured the DB1 with the power-kit and the fuse (recommended if you have no chime), and configured the sw with electronic chime. It works fine. The only issue is that when there's a power outage in the area, and then power gets back, often the SAGE sensor keeps sending notifications as if someone rang the bell. In that case I simply remove its battery, wait 1 minute to let its capacitor discharge, and put the battery back on, no need to really reset it. It's the only issue I haven't manage to resolve but it doesn't happen every often luckily. I'm using latest hikvision firmware. I record everything with Synology Survellance Station on my DS1812+. I'm also using an Aeotec Siren 6 as internal chime, it's a z-wave device, I also use it as an alarm for various automation things, managed through HE.Home assistant is very good with mqtt, actually native support for it. Same with blue iris and Synology got free and fully integrated components in home assistant
If you use DB1 without chime do you really need that beefy transformer? In the docs it say it should with no issues on 8V without a chime. How did you connect it? As usual, just attached the fuse inside the chime (disconnected the chime) and the sage how? since its not going to be connected to the chime?Read your posts. I live in Italy. Am using a DB1 with no chime installed, just the SAGE sensor integrated with my Hubitat Elevation (HE) hub. Configured the DB1 with the power-kit and the fuse (recommended if you have no chime), and configured the sw with electronic chime. It works fine. The only issue is that when there's a power outage in the area, and then power gets back, often the SAGE sensor keeps sending notifications as if someone rang the bell. In that case I simply remove its battery, wait 1 minute to let its capacitor discharge, and put the battery back on, no need to really reset it. It's the only issue I haven't manage to resolve but it doesn't happen every often luckily. I'm using latest hikvision firmware. I record everything with Synology Survellance Station on my DS1812+. I'm also using an Aeotec Siren 6 as internal chime, it's a z-wave device, I also use it as an alarm for various automation things, managed through HE.
Follow the connection schema in 101, but instead of the chime, picture the SAGE sensor, and add the fuse on the + of the transformer.
I'm using this AC 12-24V / 40VA transformer, a continuous service model, configured with 24V: Vemer VN320800 Trasformatore TMC 40/24 da Barra DIN per Servizio Continuo 230V/12-24V, Grigio Chiaro: Amazon.it: Fai da te
View attachment 65712
Not too beefy, and it's top quality, made in Italy, costs only a few € more than a cheap transformer, and these doorbells are very sensitive to power, plus I can attach also something else to it in the future, if needed. But don't go below 12V/24VA. Many problems in this thread were due to cheap 12V transformers.If you use DB1 without chime do you really need that beefy transformer? In the docs it say it should with no issues on 8V without a chime. How did you connect it? As usual, just attached the fuse inside the chime (disconnected the chime) and the sage how? since its not going to be connected to the chime?
Powerkit AND the fuse. Without powerkit it doesn't work. And since the fuse is recommended if you don't have a regular chime, you install both of them.so still use the power kit with sage, or the included fuse?
I have a ring transformer,but was hoping to get away with it as its not legal here to change it yourself, and I dont want to spend 300 usd for someone to change it
Okay, so both I can install inside the chime I assume. I live in Norway, and its not legal to touch any electrical equipment. Since the transformer needs to be connected to 220V you need a professional to mount it or your house insurance will not be valid, plus you get a penalty requiring you to do a check of the whole house with professional agency.Powerkit AND the fuse. Without powerkit it doesn't work. And since the fuse is recommended if you don't have a regular chime, you install both of them.
You can try the ring transformer and see how it goes, what kind of transfomer is it? Why is it illegal to replace a 12v transformer by yourself? What country do you live in?
If you use 1 and 4 (like in the pic) you'll have 24V 15VA. It should be enough. Try it. But...can you at least modify the wiring in Norway or is it still illegal?Okay, so both I can install inside the chime I assume. I live in Norway, and its not legal to touch any electrical equipment. Since the transformer needs to be connected to 220V you need a professional to mount it or your house insurance will not be valid, plus you get a penalty requiring you to do a check of the whole house with professional agency.
Attached is a pic of the ring transformer. Not mine, but the same one
I can do the doorbell side, but in norway you can not do anything on the 220v side, not change an outlet, change a fuse or anything like that. Its extremely strictIf you use 1 and 4 (like in the pic) you'll have 24V 15VA. It should be enough. Try it. But...can you at least modify the wiring in Norway or is it still illegal?
I admire Norwegian people, you said no to EU and €. Great respect.
The wires output on the transformer is not 220v. .. it's 8V to 24V which is actually the doorbell side ... but up to you on how you translate your lawsI can do the doorbell side, but in norway you can not do anything on the 220v side, not change an outlet, change a fuse or anything like that. Its extremely strict
220V is the input on the lower side, on the upper side you have 8/12/24V.The wires output on the transformer is not 220v. .. it's 8V to 24V which is actually the doorbell side ... but up to you on how you translate your laws
But the input is 220v, so you cant put the transformer in. When its in place you can do the 24v side, but not put the unit in the electric cabinetThe wires output on the transformer is not 220v. .. it's 8V to 24V which is actually the doorbell side ... but up to you on how you translate your laws
I understand why. Everything must be compliant and certified, for safety reasons. It makes sense.I can do the doorbell side, but in norway you can not do anything on the 220v side, not change an outlet, change a fuse or anything like that. Its extremely strict
Oh, I thought it was already in the electric breaker box and you only wanted to step up from 8v to 24vBut the input is 220v, so you cant put the transformer in. When its in place you can do the 24v side, but not put the unit in the electric cabinet
Yes, I told you, use the outputs 1 and 4, so you'll have 24V 15VA. It's good for the DB1.But if I put it in, its the 24v I should go with?
No, here in norway and europe "all" transformers are 8-12vac, so its almost always needed to be changed to a new oneOh, I thought it was already in the electric breaker box and you only wanted to step up from 8v to 24v
That's not true, I live in Italy, and we have transformers of any kind in use in all houses. Those are limits for your country probably.No, here in norway and europe "all" transformers are 8-12vac, so its almost always needed to be changed to a new one
Do you know the distance of your wiring from the doorbell to the transformer?No, here in norway and europe "all" transformers are 8-12vac, so its almost always needed to be changed to a new one