Comparing real pro cameras to home grade. More than resolution specs.

fastline12

Young grasshopper
Oct 12, 2024
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I am redoing a large commercial facility cam system. Currently 16 cams and will probably expand that. I have an opportunity to get professional Sony VM602R cams for next to nothing. But I am trying to compare and understand the true differences other than resolution, because these are only 720p cams. We really need advanced features like good long range motion detect, quality optics, good IR light output, IO outputs, microphone input, etc.

Basically if we skipped down to the store to pickup 20 of the newer gen Sonys like this, that bill would be huge! On a few of these cams, we have to cover a 2 acre lot from only one side. Part of me sees this as the used Sonys are already a massive upgrade, we can run them, see how we like, make adjustments as needed. Part of me also doesn't want to spend the time to install lower rez cams than today spec. Just trying to make good decisions here.
 
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What makes you think those cameras are real pro cameras?

Because they say pro on them and are expensive?

Wow a 1/3" sensor. That is tiny. I wouldn't be paying anything for that.

Wow look how good they would be in the dark (being sarcastic, those number suck in 2024):

Minimum Illumination (50 IRE)
Color: 0.05 lx (F1.2, View-DR Off, VE Off, AGC On, 1/30 s, 30 fps)
B/W: 0 lx (IR LED On)

Minimum Illumination (30 IRE)
Color: 0.03 lx (F1.2, View-DR Off, VE Off, AGC On, 1/30 s, 30 fps)
B/W: 0 lx (IR LED On)


Plus you say you need good long range - these are not going to cut it.

You need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A wide angle 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who.

One camera cannot be the be all, see all. Each one is selected for covering a specific area. Most of us here have different brands and types, from fixed cams, to varifocals, to PTZs, each one selected for it's primary purpose and to utilize the strength of that particular camera.

See this thread for the commonly recommended cameras (along with Amazon links) based on distance to IDENTIFY that represent the overall best value in terms of price and performance day and night.

The Importance of Focal Length over MP in camera selection

And these cameras will meet your other needs.
 
What makes you think those cameras are real pro cameras?

Because they say pro on them and are expensive?

Wow a 1/3" sensor. That is tiny. I wouldn't be paying anything for that.

Wow look how good they would be in the dark (being sarcastic, those number suck in 2024):

Minimum Illumination (50 IRE)
Color: 0.05 lx (F1.2, View-DR Off, VE Off, AGC On, 1/30 s, 30 fps)
B/W: 0 lx (IR LED On)

Minimum Illumination (30 IRE)
Color: 0.03 lx (F1.2, View-DR Off, VE Off, AGC On, 1/30 s, 30 fps)
B/W: 0 lx (IR LED On)


Plus you say you need good long range - these are not going to cut it.

You need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A wide angle 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who.

One camera cannot be the be all, see all. Each one is selected for covering a specific area. Most of us here have different brands and types, from fixed cams, to varifocals, to PTZs, each one selected for it's primary purpose and to utilize the strength of that particular camera.

See this thread for the commonly recommended cameras (along with Amazon links) based on distance to IDENTIFY that represent the overall best value in terms of price and performance day and night.

The Importance of Focal Length over MP in camera selection

And these cameras will meet your other needs.
Thanks, and my apology for ignorance here. I'm new to this but trying to make good decisions for this facility. I firmly agree with the Sony's now that I have tested them out at my farm. Not only is the image not good enough, one appeared that the IR lights were probably bad because it was mostly snow at night. Another was trying to focus on it's own scratched up lens cover.

I am gaining traction with cams. I know I have some difficult asks in getting night performance up. We are looking at adding additional perimeter lighting to help the situation. I am learning a bit regarding sensors, pixel count, thus how bright an image can really get.
 
Look at Dahua 5442 / 54IR series...
It's most popular camera here on this forum.
Very universal (lots of chassis, lens, zoom ranges, colors options), 4Mpx, have big 1/1.8" very bright sensor, with some street/outdoor lighting can have nice color image at night, works also with internal IR, built-in mics...
Ability to choose between zoom ranges (AS - fixed 2.8/3.6, ZE - zoom 1-3x, Z4E - zoom 3-9x) gives You ability to cover different usage scenarios (like fixed 2.8/3.6mm cams for wide 90-110 degree overview image, zoomed/varifocal ZE/Z4E gives ability to optically zoom at specified places - like gates/entrances/walk-ways/streets etc to have big very details faces / car plates..

It have very powerful AI abilities - IVS perimeter protection with human/car AI filtering and Video MetaData to capture/analyze/describe all visible human / faces / cars / plates..

Normally 5442 cam costs in Dahua distribution 400-600 USD..
Here on the forum we buy from one of Dahua OEM partners for fraction of this price...


Color image at night:

moving.jpg

Human / faces / cars capture with analysis (did on Z4E optics with strong 3x-9x zoom range, data received and displayed by Dahua 5xxx-EI NVR):

VMD humans.png

VMD faces.png

VMD vehicled day.png

VMD vehicles night.png
 
Look at Dahua 5442 / 54IR series...
It's most popular camera here on this forum.
Very universal (lots of chassis, lens, zoom ranges, colors options), 4Mpx, have big 1/1.8" very bright sensor, with some street/outdoor lighting can have nice color image at night, works also with internal IR, built-in mics...
Ability to choose between zoom ranges (AS - fixed 2.8/3.6, ZE - zoom 1-3x, Z4E - zoom 3-9x) gives You ability to cover different usage scenarios (like fixed 2.8/3.6mm cams for wide 90-110 degree overview image, zoomed/varifocal ZE/Z4E gives ability to optically zoom at specified places - like gates/entrances/walk-ways/streets etc to have big very details faces / car plates..

It have very powerful AI abilities - IVS perimeter protection with human/car AI filtering and Video MetaData to capture/analyze/describe all visible human / faces / cars / plates..

Normally 5442 cam costs in Dahua distribution 400-600 USD..
Here on the forum we buy from one of Dahua OEM partners for fraction of this price...


Color image at night:

View attachment 205428

Human / faces / cars capture with analysis (did on Z4E optics with strong 3x-9x zoom range, data received and displayed by Dahua 5xxx-EI NVR):

View attachment 205429

View attachment 205430

View attachment 205431

View attachment 205432
Really appreciate the help! Do I understand correctly that the 54IRs are Empire branded Dahuas? I do notice I don't see offerings for dual sensor cams? IDK why I like those wide array cams other than seems like we could reduce cam qty a bit, but I'm sure there is a down side. I will work to provide an aerial view of the facility but basically is 60k sf with about 6 different building, and a 2 acre lot next to it. The main concerns are the back of the place, where there are no roads but would be a hot zone for lowlifes.

My intended goals go beyond just "camera coverage" as they don't actually prevent crime. I need motion activated deterrents such as motion activated lights, sirens, etc. I think once any sort of 'active deterrents' are deployed, criminals will move on. We don't have "Philly level" crime here to speak of.
 
Really appreciate the help! Do I understand correctly that the 54IRs are Empire branded Dahuas? I do notice I don't see offerings for dual sensor cams? IDK why I like those wide array cams other than seems like we could reduce cam qty a bit, but I'm sure there is a down side. I will work to provide an aerial view of the facility but basically is 60k sf with about 6 different building, and a 2 acre lot next to it. The main concerns are the back of the place, where there are no roads but would be a hot zone for lowlifes.

My intended goals go beyond just "camera coverage" as they don't actually prevent crime. I need motion activated deterrents such as motion activated lights, sirens, etc. I think once any sort of 'active deterrents' are deployed, criminals will move on. We don't have "Philly level" crime here to speak of.

All of that is answered in the thread I linked above (copied below):


You need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. In most situations we need more cameras than we think.

A wide angle 2.8mm dual sensor cam to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is.

A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who.

One camera cannot be the be all, see all. Each one is selected for covering a specific area. Most of us here have different brands and types, from fixed cams, to varifocals, to PTZs, each one selected for it's primary purpose and to utilize the strength of that particular camera.


Yes the EmpireTech cameras are Dahua OEM, basically Dahua without the logo.


Most here find that cameras and motion activated floodlights ends up causing problems with image exposure and are bad for surveillance cameras.. What happens is then the camera is momentarily blinded and you lose the ideal capture when the lights kick on and the camera adjusts from basically no light to a lot of light.

Motion activated lights are not a deterrent. There are enough videos here showing that perps do not flinch when a floodlight turns on. They avoid homes all lit up, so go with floodlights on all night.

Watch this video someone posted and how the floodlight comes on and they don't even flinch. But then the audio comes on and they don't know which way to run LOL.



Either keep the lights on all night or not at all to ensure the best chance of capture.

Here is usually what happens when a motion activated floodlight comes on - it just about completely blinds the camera right at the moment of optimal opportunity to get the picture. There are 3 deer in this picture and two of them are lost in the blinded white while the camera's exposure adjusts to the rapid change in available light:

1665166487414.png




Or this example that completely missed the perp:

The Typical picture of a Perp on Nextdoor-type Apps with Consumer Grade Cameras like Ring, Nest, Arlo, Canary, Wyze, etc.

 
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A couple issues with the 180 cams:
  • No IR - You will need to provide visible light.
  • Limited to 3.6mm - limited ability to ID, especially when installed further from the ground.
  • Cannot adjust each sensor for the scene - If the lighting is not the same across the whole sweep of both cams, you can have issues dialing them in. I have some of these deployed as sky cams, I have struggled to get a good image because one may see more light pollution than the other. This creates a problem since they are both basically looking at different scenes, but use the same control.

To add on to @wittaj above. Cameras need a purpose and need to be installed and spec'd accordingly:

One camera cannot do it all. You cannot see everything and still see details. Getting good details does not allow you to see everything; it is a give and take.

This is why a good system will have cameras that complement each other. This is also why a PTZ is a complement to a good, already established system and should not be heavily relied on by itself.

When planning your system and layout start by focusing on choke points and set up fields of view to capture details and give the ability to ID. This means all this camera will be able to do/see is the very narrow scope of its job. You can then deploy a more general overview cam to give context to the details. This overview cam can support one or more of your choke point ID cams.

For instance, as an extreme example. I am deploying this camera. It's only job is to see people walking down the path behind my house. This is what I see 99% of the time when I look at the feed.
1729529726913.png

However, this is what I see when someone walks down the path, 95' feet away.
1729529745620.png

I then have these two cameras I can use to get a better idea/context of what they were doing and where they may have come from or gone to. The kill zone is between the green lines and the camera is on the fence at the bottom, center of the picture. You can see someone just entering the KZ and the 3.6mm focal length of this cam gives absolutely no details other than it might be a person. (The second image is from a 3.6mm 180 degree cam, for reference.)
1729529765609.png

1729529773410.png

This is the person in the above wide angle shot, and there is no way you would have been able to tell it was a male, in a red, flannel shirt, with sunglasses, and a receding hairline.
1729529789753.png

Below are a couple links to some of my threads which you might find helpful. I have learned a lot since joining and try to pay it forward when possible.

This is my on-going "build" thread.

This is one I put together with images from my journey showing the differences between focal lengths, install heights, changing fields of view, etc.
 
+1 above - excellent visuals showing how one camera cannot perform as the be all/see all.

The dual lens wide angles give you nice overviews, but that comes at the cost of IDENTIFY.

The tighter field of view obtained by larger focal lengths give you the IDENTIFY, but at the cost of overview.

So both are needed if one really wants to provide the best opportunity to give useful info to the police.
 
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Really appreciate the help! Do I understand correctly that the 54IRs are Empire branded Dahuas? I do notice I don't see offerings for dual sensor cams? IDK why I like those wide array cams other than seems like we could reduce cam qty a bit, but I'm sure there is a down side. I will work to provide an aerial view of the facility but basically is 60k sf with about 6 different building, and a 2 acre lot next to it. The main concerns are the back of the place, where there are no roads but would be a hot zone for lowlifes.

My intended goals go beyond just "camera coverage" as they don't actually prevent crime. I need motion activated deterrents such as motion activated lights, sirens, etc. I think once any sort of 'active deterrents' are deployed, criminals will move on. We don't have "Philly level" crime here to speak of.

yes, 54IR is Empire branded Dahua 5442...

Dahua have some dual-sensors cam - mostly 180 degree cams which splice 2 images into one... but there are Full Color / only white light cams (don't see IR).. and there is no optical zoom there (those cams are only overview)..


If we talk about alarm / siren / "police" lights, there is TIOC & TIOC-PRO (3xx9-AS-PV line) camera line, which are mostly created for house and SMB market:





Standalone TIOC have bad night performance (small sensor), but TIOC-PRO have bigger one (1/1.8")..
Those TIOC's cameras have lower AI capabilities in comparison to 5xxx line..
And there is no varifocal (with optical zoom) models.. Only static 2.8/3.6mm (wide 110 or 90 degrees horizontal)...

Alternatively You can connect any lights/siren/alarm/anti-deterrents device by small 5-12V relay to alarm-out connector on 5442/54IR camera or NVR...

if we talk about big areas to observe/monitor and minimizing count of cameras.. there are PTZ cams, which can find and auto track people (can rotate and optically zoom)... optical zoom 25x (2x-50x)..

Worse with 1/2.8" sensor: EmpireTech PTZ425DB-AT 1/2.8" 4MP 25x Starlight IR 5mm–125mm Vari-Foca
Better with 1/1.8" sensor: EmpireTech PTZ5A4M-25X 1/1.8" CMOS 4MP 25x Starlight IR 5.4mm–135mm Va

Biggest problem with PTZ is that when it zoom at someone, You miss overview image. So it can be someone else at different position which will be ignored by PTZ in that time.

There are new Panoramic + PTZ cams where you have 180 degree static overview image (from 2 static sensors) + moveable/zoomable PTZ from third sensor:

Worse 1/2.8": EmpireTech SDT4E425-8P-GB-APV1 8MP+4MP 25x Starlight TiOC Network Pano
Better 1/1.8": EmpireTech SDT8C842-8P-FA-APV-0280 2×1/1.8" CMOS 8MP 42x Starlight Dua

Those cams create 2 different channels streams (works as 2 cams, one overview 180 degree, second as PTZ).
 
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Outstanding info! Thank you tremendously! I'd like to share more details as I think it will help. The entire property is about 400x500ft, entire 6ft perimeter fence. Front acess is via 3 card access sliding gates. You must get out of a vehicle to swipe a card. Pinch point for sure as well as any vehicle would have to stop in the entrances. I don't expect anyone attempting to gain forced entry at those gates due to very high visibility, street lights, complexity, etc.

One side of property unfortunately adjoins to a city easement that is about 60ft wide. It's literally a conduit for criminals IMO, as it adjoins to an unrestricted, poorly maintained drainage area where there are no roads. Police cannot even access it. That back fence line is 500ft long and before we got it, someone had cut the fence. Vehicles are commonly parked on the open 2 ac fenced lot. If someone somehow got a vehicle running, their only way out is ramming a sliding gate.

I hear exactly what is being said about lights and sounds, which is why my focus is on deterrents. We will be increasing facility lighting but is already served with 6 large OH lights that are maintained under agreement with the electric utility. I feel confident that most of our issues would present at the back of the property, where it is poorly covered currently.

I am getting a MUCH better understanding on cam selection now, thanks to you guys! Identify the chokes, and get good low FOV cams in those spots to get crystal clear IDs. Use wider FOVs for general activity monitoring. Basically the wider FOV spreads the pixels out so detail is not possible. Since I am having to completely rebuild the cam system, I am mostly ignoring current cam locations because it's obvious minimal amateur thought went into it, and they bought a simple 'cam/dvr kit'....

As I design the POE system, I am trying to employ POE switch and backbone networks to give some expansion if/when needed.
 
If you at design phase and You can change camera locations, there is very good tool:


You can project You cctv system using satellite/aerial photo...

this tool have huge camera database which contains also parameters - like min / max horizontal Field of Views for camera zoom range or DORI distances, which are coded as colors (So You see where is Identify range for specific camera model & zoom range, where Observe range etc)...

tools costs 12$ monthly / 51$ yearly...
allows you to avoid many costly mistakes in the CCTV system at design phase

export-2.jpg
 
Really appreciate! Right now I am trying to soak my brain with some camera optic education. Focal lengths, sensors, shutter, etc. A lot to learn!

However, I wanted to ask as I try to home in on quality and appropriate cams, I am curious how motion detection is baked into cams? I know my friend that is a security pro has mentioned high end cams have next level software to literally tell the difference between a deer and a human. I guess what I am asking is how I will be able to reduce false alerts from say the trees moving, rather than a real human subject?
 
Nowadays each modern camera has some kind of human/cars AI based filtering for Motion Detection.

All cameras which I give You link to, have SMD (Smart Motion Detection) and IVS (Intrusion Detection) - both with human/cars filtering...
Some cameras have much more - like 5442/54IR - where You have also animal filtering, AcuPick for searching similar looking people from other cameras, Face Detection or partial/full Video MetaData - which catches all human / faces / vehicles with describing them by AI using attributes (like male, average age, white t-shirt, blue jeans, with hat, glasses and backpack).

Look at 6 post in this thread where I give You examples how Video Meta Data works on 54IR with 5xxx-EI NVR...
You can search by those attributes.
 
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Here is a post with video of my spotter cam calling my PTZ to a location to then start auto tracking. It uses (and shows) the camera's internal AI (IVS) to detect the person via tripwires.

 
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This thread is a little old and the AI is even better now, but it shoes you what thr $150-$250 cameras we suggest are capable of:

 
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Still soaking things up. Did have a question though. Seems many here are fans of the Dahua or relabeled gear. But in some of the testing I have seen on YT would indicate they, or maybe any camera, may struggle to get a crisp image at night? Lots of blurred images, over exposed license plates, etc.

Basically some of my conclusions are these, all cameras will struggle at night without light. IR is just not a replacement for visible light. The question is how much visible light is needed to keep a camera on point? We are firmly addressing lighting and because this is commercial, probably not going to skimp much here.

One of you guys I read posts from maybe last year to largely ignore daytime performance. They can all do it. Focus on the worst condition performance.

What I am hoping is our focus on new lighting will aid our cams all the way around.
 
Yep, just because someone on YouTube makes a video, they are the expert....who gets commission for recommendations...

Most of the testing you see on YouTube is with default settings and default setting slow the shutter down to get nice bright static images at the expense of blur during motion.

Here was a thread where I debunked this with a Dahua OEM that rated poorly in a YouTube review.

And most internet articles will favor higher MP and give daytime examples. How about a 2am example with motion?

That is what makes this site different is that we are all sharing our own real world examples with our own cameras and showing how they perform in the situations we care about - a perp at 2am walking around.

That is what makes this forum so great - it is a collection of users that have been there/done that and are sharing experience and tips with no ulterior motive. Unlike the reviews and YouTube videos where they are getting either paid by the hit or thru affiliation commission based on sales from their links, we are just the average homeowner sharing our journey for free. Of course we have preferences and opinions on cameras, but that is based on our own personal usage and not based on recommending a camera based on getting a commission for every camera we push.

Do a search here with REVIEW in the title and see what we are showing in these worse case scenarios...We are capturing plates and clean images at 2am once you take a better camera off of default settings.

But don't be mistaken, some cameras claim to allow you to change settings, but they will override them for a nice bright static image (like Reolinks).


But yes all cameras need light, whether it be infrared or visible light.

The only difference between a camera labeled as "full color" is they come with white visible lights instead of infrared.

You CAN force a camera with infrared to all color if you have enough visible light.

You CANNOT force a full color camera to use infrared as they do not see it.

So for most it is better to buy a camera with infrared in the event enough visible light cannot be provided.

So if you provide a camera with enough light, it can perform well.
 
Yep, just because someone on YouTube makes a video, they are the expert....who gets commission for recommendations...

Most of the testing you see on YouTube is with default settings and default setting slow the shutter down to get nice bright static images at the expense of blur during motion.

Here was a thread where I debunked this with a Dahua OEM that rated poorly in a YouTube review.

And most internet articles will favor higher MP and give daytime examples. How about a 2am example with motion?

That is what makes this site different is that we are all sharing our own real world examples with our own cameras and showing how they perform in the situations we care about - a perp at 2am walking around.

That is what makes this forum so great - it is a collection of users that have been there/done that and are sharing experience and tips with no ulterior motive. Unlike the reviews and YouTube videos where they are getting either paid by the hit or thru affiliation commission based on sales from their links, we are just the average homeowner sharing our journey for free. Of course we have preferences and opinions on cameras, but that is based on our own personal usage and not based on recommending a camera based on getting a commission for every camera we push.

Do a search here with REVIEW in the title and see what we are showing in these worse case scenarios...We are capturing plates and clean images at 2am once you take a better camera off of default settings.

But don't be mistaken, some cameras claim to allow you to change settings, but they will override them for a nice bright static image (like Reolinks).


But yes all cameras need light, whether it be infrared or visible light.

The only difference between a camera labeled as "full color" is they come with white visible lights instead of infrared.

You CAN force a camera with infrared to all color if you have enough visible light.

You CANNOT force a full color camera to use infrared as they do not see it.

So for most it is better to buy a camera with infrared in the event enough visible light cannot be provided.

So if you provide a camera with enough light, it can perform well.
Ha, I think the content I referred to was from you sir! It seems like security lighting will be two fold for us. Both instantly deters perps, and gives us better cam shots. A win. Likely adding at least one light pole, or what I like to call a F.U. pole because I want outfitted with cams, sirens, red/blues etc. I know the two types of people we will likely deal with.

I think I have been talked off the ledge mostly on PTZ, or at least in a pro setup, they should be backed up with static cams. I do have a tough 2ac lot I need to get covered, and Steve was nice enough to drop links, and I very much liked that BA PTZ/pano combo but that price!! wow! I think we are into FLIR cams in that price point. But the specs are insane!

Again, whole property is pushing 5ac, including a 2ac lot that will have various storage in it, which will become a hot item for perps.

I was pretty damn excited to learn more about the Dahua IVS tripwire/intrusion stuff. I super like drawing a virtual line, setting rules, etc. This is really good stuff!! I'd really like to buy only one brand and try to stick with them as things change. Dahua does seem to stay cutting edge.