Hikvision DS-KB6003-WIP Wi-Fi Doorbell chime?

All components involved are designed to run on standard door bell wire. Single pair, 18AWG. There’s no such thing as “better”. just use the stuff meant for the job
 
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All components involved are designed to run on standard door bell wire. Single pair, 18AWG. There’s no such thing as “better”. just use the stuff meant for the job
Thanks, would distance be an issue? As the transformer will be around 7-9m away....
 
Great! Could I get away with speaker or alarm wire as I've got some left from a previous project?
Whenever I work on someone’s doorbell, I roll my eyes when I see speaker wire. It is so much more difficult to work with stranded wire when working with any component involved with a doorbell. Transformer, chime, and button all have a screw terminal waiting for a solid wire to be wrapped around it! I see people wrap stranded wire around a screw, but it is flat out wrong! And terminals add bulk and get in the way when working in a small hole behind the button
 
Whenever I work on someone’s doorbell, I roll my eyes when I see speaker wire. It is so much more difficult to work with stranded wire when working with any component involved with a doorbell. Transformer, chime, and button all have a screw terminal waiting for a solid wire to be wrapped around it! I see people wrap stranded wire around a screw, but it is flat out wrong! And terminals add bulk and get in the way when working in a small hole behind the button
Thanks for that, I'll purchase some bell wire :)
 
Well, this is fun!

I've not purchased the camera yet, thought I would get my ducks in a row first.

Seems I need to upgrade my transformer, as it is 8vac. That's fine, have ordered an 8/12/24 tranny. You guys seem to be happy driving chimes rated 8-12vac at 24vac, like the Byron 772. That really OK?

Then I thought I'd quickly pop the cover of my existing chime looking for clues. I haven't looked at the transformer wiring yet, but WTF is this?!? Why so many wires for one chime, one doorbell, one tranny. I swear the guy who wired this house was a lunatic.
 

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Do you have three doors with buttons by them?
 
Hi Guys,

I thought I'd provide a little info on my setup as it may help those considering this doorbell.

I previously had a very old-school large AC chime (which came with the house when I bought it) powered by a 12v AC transformer with the doorbell button in the circuit.

I replaced the transformer with this https://www.amazon.co.uk/JCL-BT8-8-Brand-Bell-Transformer/dp/B00K1CWEUG, which provides taps at 8, 12 and 24v. I have wired the doorbell in to the 24v tap along with a 12v AC relay which is bridged by the supplied resistor. The relay then triggers an input on my Comfort HA panel, which in turn triggers another relay powering the chime off the 12v tap on the same transformer. Obviously the relay could be directly connected to the chime using the 12v tap, but I use the Comfort HA panel to mute the doorbell when the kids are in bed as well as doing other stuff beyond the scope of this quick note.

I found that using the doorbell on my Velop WiFi worked fine when using it with the HIK-Vision app but it wasn't stable enough for 24/7 streaming. I have configured a separate dedicated WiFi AP using an old Apple AirPort Time Capsule, which was otherwise not being used, and this has allowed the doorbell to sit on the IP Cam network rather sharing the main house network.

I am streaming the feed from the doorbell to a Synology NAS using Surveillance Station and feeds from this are sent (along with others) to a couple of Raspberry Pi's with screens or plugged into spare HDMI inputs in TV's around the house. Getting access to the doorbell to get a stream is a bit fiddly, you need to ensure the doorbell isn't associated with a HIK-Connect account (by deleting it where necessary) and then doing a hard reset. Using the HIK-Connect App, create a QR code for the WiFi network and once connected, find the doorbell's IP address and navigate to it using a browser. You will be presented with a slightly buggy web page which allows you to set a default admin password. If you don't do this, and allow it to associate with a HIK-Connect account before setting a password (by scanning the QR code on the doorbell), you can't get into the Web GUI as the password is unknown.

There are a few things I would like to do which I am still investigating:

1. Change the default audio - I have made some progress on this and there is a separate thread tracking it.
2. Receive a trigger from the doorbell push other than via the HIK-Connect app or the physical relay.
3. Get proper support for the doorbell in Surveillance Station rather than via OVNIF to get access to the cameras motion detection and hopefully the doorbell trigger.

Some other notes:

The Web Gui is a cut down version of the regular web gui in HIK-Vision camera, whilst there are tabs for user management and other items, functionality is very limited.
The motion detection tab in the web GUI offers more granularity for the motion detection zones than the App, it is very buggy and a PITA to use. I found the best way is to make small changes, saving at each stage, if you have a complex mask.
The doorbell was prone to occasional / random reboots - this appears to have been solved by using the 24v tap (I was using 16v via tap 2 & 4).

Anyway, hope the above is useful.

Thanks,

Matt
 
... I have wired the doorbell in to the 24v tap along with a 12v AC relay which is bridged by the supplied resistor...

I'm getting the same transformer. I can't for the life of me find a chime rated for 24v. Is triggering the 12v/8v circuit with a relay from the 24v going to be easier for me than tracking down a suitable chime? Guys seem to be running Byron 772 chimes on 24v but Byron "expert" on ScrewFix say not over 12v...