I think you know this butPushing the reset and holding is not easy, but I pulled wires from the transformer and put a switch on one leg so I can easily hold the reset button and turn the power on to the doorbell.
I've tried formatting the card in Windows and using Rufus, tried with just the firmware file on the card, firmware file + a copy named digicap.dav, just a file named digicap.dav and repeated with both HIK and EZ-Viz firmware. I'm pretty sure since the LED ring never flashes, it is not able to even get to the point where it reads the firmware off of the card.
It's dead JIm.
Thanks for the help.
You have to have the firmware file (*.dat) named right for the loaded firmware to work. When I bricked my on the HickVid firmware I ended up renam
Its sounds like a heat problem and that is great because its easy to test and fix. If you remove power for about 10min then hookup and it works like new again odds are its a heat problem. If that is the case you can try putting a GAP between the Door Bell and the mount so the heat can get out at the TOP.Well, I've had the LaView version of the doorbell up and running for over a year now without any problems, and over the last few days I've noticed some random glitching of the video stream and today the button press doesn't ring my mechanical chime anymore. I rebooted a couple of times without any remedy. I wonder if it's a power problem... Do you think my 30VA transformer that I installed new back when I installed the doorbell is going bad?
A 16v 30va runs the door bells MUCH, MUCH, MUCH, cooler then a 26v ??va transformer. The higher VOLTS is the problem not the higher VA. If you do a search through this thread you will find ALOT of people pointing this out.
You need a high enough voltage that the door bell gets enough VOLTS at the end of that long small gauge wire. So the LOWER the volts that works the better for the life span of ALL the smart Door Bells.