Sunba HZ507-20XB Mini Dome PTZ Camera

Sorry @Jats, I can't answer your questions. But I did want to add another attaboy to this camera. My 'temporary' install above my garage door involved a single screw holding it about 8' off of the concrete driveway. This week, I accidentally bumped into it with a mini excavator boom. It knocked off, and it fell straight down, impacting with a bone-crushing thud. I thought for sure it was toast. Aside from a rather large ding on the camera module (at the pivot point), it is in perfect shape. This thing is stout.
 
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If I was a Chinese marketer on AliExpress, I'd run with that, sure. But the reality is, I just tapped it, knocking it off the screw. The damage was 100% from the 8' free fall. Well, actually, it wasn't the fall, but the sudden stop at the end. I thought for sure the focus would be off, or a cracked glass cover... nada. Very impressed.
 
I've got three questions regarding the 507:
1. Where do I get the best deal for this one ? I can only find it for 250$ which seems a little too much, compared to the 'Mini PTZ' by Huisun.
2. Will I be able to connect and control the camera to a Hikvision DVR DS-7208HQHI-SH/A (it's a TVI with two additional IP 'slots') ?
3. Do I really have to re-set the settings for day and night vision every day ?

Thanks in advance!

I got mine when it was on sale on Ali Express. Total price was under $170, but shortly afterwards the price went up and has pretty much stayed at the current price. I also can't answer your NVR question, since I only use Blue Iris. You might be better off with the Huisun Mini PTZ, as I believe several people in the forum are using the cameras with NVR's. Regarding the day and night settings, the default night settings are really bad on my camera. I would not recommend this camera unless you understand and can live with it's limitations. I have 3 of the Huisun Mini Bullet PTZ cameras (all Version 1) and I'm very happy with the performance.
 
I've got three questions regarding the 507:
1. Where do I get the best deal for this one ? I can only find it for 250$ which seems a little too much, compared to the 'Mini PTZ' by Huisun.
2. Will I be able to connect and control the camera to a Hikvision DVR DS-7208HQHI-SH/A (it's a TVI with two additional IP 'slots') ?
3. Do I really have to re-set the settings for day and night vision every day ?

Thanks in advance!

Regarding your question about using this camera with a NVR, apparently there is new firmware for this model for setting presets in the camera with Hikvision and Dahua NVR's. According to a message I received from the seller of my camera on Ali Express you no longer need to use a computer with Internet Explorer to set presets with a NVR. For more information you can contact Sunba or the seller I used which was CCTV Camera Factory Store.
 
Can someone please upload a latest firmware for this cam?

As I mentioned above, the seller, CCTV Camera Factory Store (#1487272) offered to send me the firmware, but I have no use for it as I use Blue Iris. Again, I would suggest contacting the seller on the Ali Express web site.
 
Looks like I'll be waking up a 2 week old thread. I have been getting some pretty massive ghosting/stuck pixel video from my 507s lately. It may well be the way I have the configured - or the way Blue Iris is set up.

At first I thought it was just the way the Blue Iris web component (activex) was streaming the live/recorded clips, but even after slowly exporting the full resolution (over 1mbps DSL), the artifacting remains.

Has anyone seen this before, and is there a simple resolution?

I'm getting it on all three 507s. All three are powered over ethernet (using passive injector/splitters). Length of each cat 6 cable is no more than about 50'.

 
What version of Blue Iris are you running? Did these ghosting/stuck pixels ever appear before? What are your Encode settings for the camera? I recently got a new Sunba camera and I saw this warning in the user guide: "The camera will be exposed to high risks of motherboard damage and void the warranty if you use passive PoE injector/splitter".
 
BI is latest version (set to auto update) 4.4.6.0. Camera configuration is Xmeye - as it has been all along.

The camera itself has the following encoding settings:

2016-10-13_0-42-05.jpg2016-10-13_0-42-29.jpg

That is, all three cameras have the same settings. I'm also noticing a distinct bursty-ness when I'm panning/zooming. It'll move fine for about 2-3 seconds, then lock up, then speed up to catch up to real time. Makes it very hard to get precise movements.

I've tried using the web GUI of the camera to see if it's any better, but given that my control is via TeamViewer and over a 1mpbs upload DSL, I can't really tell. My suspicion is that the camera's web page or the CMS software does NOT exhibit this artifacting.
 
Your settings look okay from what I can see. I also still use the Xmeye setting in Blue Iris too. I didn't upgrade to the latest Blue Iris version (4.4.6.0) yet, I'm still running 4.4.5.3. I usually wait a until the latest version has been updated from an "0" before I upgrade. I'm wondering if what you notice during panning/zooming might be power related. I would imagine that when the camera is panning/zooming that it draws more power. I'm also still using the passive PoE injector/splitter on my 507. On my new Sunba camera I decided to ditch the passive PoE injector/splitter and ran an outdoor power extension cord out to the camera instead.
 
Change your iFrame to match your FPS, it has worked for me with other cameras.
 
Thanks @yeme. I will give that a go. ETA - looks like the max i-frame rate is 12. My frame rate is set to 15 - which I'd really like to keep.

In the interim, the continuous toggling between over-exposed and dim under certain lighting conditions has also returned. At certain brightness levels during the day, I see this happen:




Which, of course, causes constant motion trigger and the camera is trying to autofocus non-stop.
 
Your settings look okay from what I can see. I also still use the Xmeye setting in Blue Iris too. I didn't upgrade to the latest Blue Iris version (4.4.6.0) yet, I'm still running 4.4.5.3. I usually wait a until the latest version has been updated from an "0" before I upgrade. I'm wondering if what you notice during panning/zooming might be power related. I would imagine that when the camera is panning/zooming that it draws more power. I'm also still using the passive PoE injector/splitter on my 507. On my new Sunba camera I decided to ditch the passive PoE injector/splitter and ran an outdoor power extension cord out to the camera instead.
@lulu5kamz - thanks for the suggestions. The first 'trial' 507 was installed nearly a year go and has been operating flawlessly. Same settings, using a PoE injector/splitter. All cables are cat 6, 22ga pure copper, specifically for the anticipated current of my PoE cameras. Using this in-line tester, I can see that at no point does the voltage drop below 10.5V at the camera. That's at night, with camera panning, tilting, and zooming, simultaneously. I've tested this on my 507 at my primary home as well.

Further, the ghosting is NOT apparent on either the CMS or the cameras GUI page (I've been able to verify by tuning TeamViewer to it's most efficient settings). So I feel pretty confident that there is something going on with my Blue Iris and how it plays with the settings on the cameras.

As for the PoE injectors damaging the camera, I can certainly appreciate Sunba's disclaimer. Though, I would question how much of that is a CYA or "scare off the less experienced/knowledgeable customers from attempting it" tactic. While it's possible that undervoltage could damage the camera, I'm guessing their concern is that someone accidentally attaches it to a true PoE power source (48V). That will fry the board (and camera module). But, 10.5VDC at the camera due to voltage drop, so far, has not been an issue on the 507s (for me).
 
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The toggling between over-exposed and dim reminds me of the first PoE cameras I ever purchased. They were Agasio branded cameras made by Foscam. They all did the same thing. Do you see this on all your 507's? I would think there might be a setting of some type in the camera to adjust the tolerance to certain lighting conditions. I'm not sure what it would be though. The suggestion above from yeme is something I've seen in other forum posts. It would be worth a try.
 
I've set the i-frame to 12 for the ghosting, but won't be able to verify until I have actual subjects at the property - who knows when that will be.

I know exactly what you're talking about. I went through several dozen foscam-clones (wansview, wanscam, asiago, etc) and they all suffered from that - especially those with ir-cut filters. Very frustrating to think that a bug we left behind many generations ago is seemingly back. I'll provide an update here if/when the seller suggests a fix.
 
I've set the i-frame to 12 for the ghosting, but won't be able to verify until I have actual subjects at the property - who knows when that will be.

I know exactly what you're talking about. I went through several dozen foscam-clones (wansview, wanscam, asiago, etc) and they all suffered from that - especially those with ir-cut filters. Very frustrating to think that a bug we left behind many generations ago is seemingly back. I'll provide an update here if/when the seller suggests a fix.

That in line tester you have looks pretty nice. I may pick up one of those. I've always wondered about the voltage my 507 is getting via the passive splitters. This would answer that question.