Sunba HZ507-20XB Mini Dome PTZ Camera

Just thought I'd share my recent experience with one of the three 507s I bought for my vacation pad. I gave one to a neighbor up there, and he promptly hooked it up to 48V active PoE. It fried something. The red LED on the PS now just blinks when the camera is connected. I emailed the seller via AE, and they were supper helpful. They sold me a replacement "main board", which they said would have certainly fried with that over voltage. The board, with shipping, was USD29.00. It arrived a few weeks later, and I replaced it without issue. Unfortunately, as soon as the wiring harness from the camera/lens module was plugged into the main board, the PS would get overloaded again. I reached out to the seller, and they suggested replacing the camera/lens module... Get this... US76 incl shipping to US. Un-real. So sent them $80, and a couple more weeks, it arrived. I replaced it, and bingo. I now have a fully functional camera again. These things are so easy to take apart, and so modular, as long as parts are available, I feel pretty comfortable with self-service.

FWIW, here is a recent time-lapse capture from up at the cabin...

 
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I took the 507 down and brought it inside
I hooked it up on 4 to 6 ft. cables, still cant factory reset with 93 or 83 using IE or CMS, still no menu
Ir commands work fine
I logged in using Onvif device manager also, tried factory reset, no change
Maybe Sunba will respond soon

Sunba Tech done a team viewer session, He confirmed issue with lens module
they are going send me a replacement
 
Has anyone gotten these items to water proof the CAT5 connection?
View attachment 12570
I bought an 801-D20XB and they asked if it were OK to upgrade me to the 805-D20XB P2P that would ship from Delaware. Gee let me think. :-)
However the 805 camera did not have the stock settings, at least according to the documentation. I only got the camera and Wall mount, no screws to attach the camera to the wall mount, nothing. I also did not get the items pictured in the attached photo. I'm thinking I got a return or refurb unit. I had extra M6 screws from my network rack to mount the camera. Just wish I had those water proof connector parts.

Also when its at full up position and you zoom you zoom into the ground at about a 40 degree angle. Is that all the tilt up I can expect?
I'm wondering, could the lens board be bent down from shipping?

I did get those items with my Sunba camera. I did not get any screws with my camera. My Sunba camera was shipped from China. According to Sunba specifications for your 805-D20XB P2P, that camera is supposed to have upward tilt. I would ask Sunba about this if you do not see it. My Sunba camera has no upward tilt. So when my camera is in it's most upward position, the farthest that I can zoom to is the middle of the video image. That is, draw a horizontal line across the middle point of the video image. That is the farthest you can zoom to on a camera that has no upward tilt.
 
After explaining it over and over they finally told me they will send the connection parts. :-)

This is the model I was upgraded to.
http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cbsoghdI

It says: Vertical 2°~90°
Lower it says: Tilt: -5° ~90° (Auto Flip)
Is that 2° or 5° upward tilt?
Here is what it looks like
http://www.nourse.us/private/805-D20XB.mp4

The video looks like a camera with no upward tilt. Also, the pictures of the camera shown on the link appears to indicate that the camera would be unable to tilt upward because of the physical design of the nightvision lights. The specifications are confusing to say the least. Again, I would ask Sunba if this camera has upward tilt or not and see what they say.
 
Is there any way to set the tilt limits for this camera?
My camera only tilts to about level and I want it to tilt up a little. If I tilt it a little below level and then manually force it up and then tilt it up with the PTZ controls it does tilt above level and it works fine until there is a power failure and I need to repeat this procedure... It's a bit annoying... (btw if you want to do this do it at your own risk as the first time you tilt it up the stepper motor will be forced to skip steps).

Actually after further inspection my camera does not tilt to level unless I manually push it up (it doesn't tilt above level as I said in the post above)... I've been in touch with sunba and they are trying to figure out what's wrong.
 
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Here's a stupid question... But what if someone has the original 507-20xb that only goes to 90, but then removes the camera globe, and using a bench grinder or cut-off wheel, trims down the metal interference parts - just enough to allow the globe to aim upward? When I removed the camera module from the globe, I saw a limit switch - which I'm sure could be moved up by a few degrees assuming the physical metal parts are trimmed enough to allow the extra height. I have an extra camera that is currently not installed, so I'll give it a good look when time permits.
 
Alright, curiosity got the better of me. I just pulled the camera down from the test location (just above my garage door with a temp PoE splitter and Cat5 patch cable) and looked it over. The area that is causing the interference is the entire width of the top/front of the camera globe. Trimming that, or the part it contacts on the base, would likely compromise the weather tightness of either part.

But... Having just replaced the camera module, I knew that there is only a single right-angle bracket that holds the camera to the glass at the front of the globe. The camera body has a thick foam ring to help block any IR bleed from inside the globe. So, with a combination of bending that 90° bracket, and mounting the camera against the glass at a slight angle - and sliding the foam to the front most part of the camera body, I was able to peer WELL above the horizon. I'd say AT LEAST 5° above, if not 10°.

My concerns were that the IR beam would no longer be centered in the field of view - Given the flood and spot patterns, it is simply not noticeable. The other concern was that the foam not seal out any internal IR, causing cloudiness or reflections - that also did not happen.

Since it's dark here, I don't have good before/after reference photos/video. I'll take some tomorrow if I a) find the time, and b) don't forget.

The beauty of this approach, when compared to shimming the entire camera where it mounts to the house/wall, is that as the camera pans from left to right, the horizon stays level. If the whole camera is shimmed where the bracket is mounted to the house, the horizon dips down as the camera pans away from dead center.

Before bending the bracket:
Sunba bracket (before).jpg



After bending the bracket:
Sunba bracket (after).jpg



Camera installed in globe face with bent bracket:
Sunba camera module mounted (after).jpg



View of compressed foam. Note how the top side of the camera lens is further from the glass than the bottom (yellow highlights):
Sunba foam compressed (after).jpg
 
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Ok, so some daytime pics to show the difference between standard tilt and modified:



Sunba day wide max tilt up (before).jpgSunba day wide max tilt up (after).jpg




Sunba day full zoomed in max tilt up (before).jpgSunba day zoomed 70 percent max tilt up (after).jpg
 
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I sent the picture I posted in the last page to sunba and now they are saying the tilt angle depends on the installation and they tried to sell me a camera with upward tilt (601-D20X only camera they sell with upward tilt acording to them).

The thing is I don't even need upward tilt, I just need the camera to go to level (as advertised) without me having to push it up with my hands. And I also have the camera shimmed on the two bottom holes, and it is mounted to a building on a 100% straight column so it actually should be pointing up (when panned dead center as ekme73 explained above). Unfortunately looks like sunba support don't really want to help me...
 
It sounds like the limit switch (magnetic, I believe) may be off by a bit. It might be worth popping the side cover off (only two screws) to see if it's something you can adjust.
 
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I suppose if I wanted better (less over-exposed) night vision, then yes, I'd have to drop the AE reference down to 40ish - and back up to 50 during the day to keep it from being too dark. I have enough overlap with other cameras to not be too concerned with the over-exposed night time video, so I leave it at 50.
 
Hi everyone, is one of you using this model with a NVR ?
 
Does anyone know any android app that is able to control this camera's PTZ? The PTZ controls are messed up on every app I tried, they always go to the max, if I tilt up it tilts all the way up, if I zoom in it zooms all the way in and if I pan it continuously pans until I send another command.
 
Does anyone know any android app that is able to control this camera's PTZ? The PTZ controls are messed up on every app I tried, they always go to the max, if I tilt up it tilts all the way up, if I zoom in it zooms all the way in and if I pan it continuously pans until I send another command.
Have you tried tinycam? the developer is a member of this forum.
 
Does anyone know any android app that is able to control this camera's PTZ? The PTZ controls are messed up on every app I tried, they always go to the max, if I tilt up it tilts all the way up, if I zoom in it zooms all the way in and if I pan it continuously pans until I send another command.

The Blue Iris Android App is working on my camera. I'm running version 2.0.30 with my Sunba HZ507-20XB camera. The PTZ controls work fine for me with the tilting, panning, and zooming functions working as expected.
 
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I've got three questions regarding the 507:
1. Where do I get the best deal for this one ? I can only find it for 250$ which seems a little too much, compared to the 'Mini PTZ' by Huisun.
2. Will I be able to connect and control the camera to a Hikvision DVR DS-7208HQHI-SH/A (it's a TVI with two additional IP 'slots') ?
3. Do I really have to re-set the settings for day and night vision every day ?

Thanks in advance!