Sweet! LTS is releasing an ONVIF compatible doorbell with SD card slot and 940nm IR

18v at the transformer and 17v at the doorbell. Still no power to this doorbell. Old push button works fine

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
bbp said:
18v at the transformer and 17v at the doorbell. Still no power to this doorbell. Old push button works fine

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Does the cam work if you disconnect the doorbell wires from the transformer, and connect the cam directly to the transformer (using the resister)? If it does, I think the problem is the wires to the doorbell can't handle the extra load of the cam. Electrical chimes can also cause problems with the power the cam receives.
 
DognamedTank said:
Does the cam work if you disconnect the doorbell wires from the transformer, and connect the cam directly to the transformer (using the resister)? If it does, I think the problem is the wires to the doorbell can't handle the extra load of the cam. Electrical chimes can also cause problems with the power the cam receives.
Click to expand...

It burnt up the resister when hooked directly to the transformer.
 
I bought the RCA version but haven't yet hooked it up (currently have a Ring Pro with an active yearly subscription so I'm taking my time). Can anyone explain in what scenarios the resistor (which apparently comes with the LaView version but does not come with the RCA version) and the diode (which I don't think comes with any of the iterations) need to be used?

I have a ~5 year old Honeywell electronic chime and a ~5 year old 16V transformer (I replaced them myself a few years ago so I'm pretty sure the transformer can supply sufficient power). My original lighted pushbutton (not that old, just before any of the smart doorbells came out) had a built-in diode (just connected different terminals for an electric vs. mechanical chime). I replaced it with the original Ring doorbell, which came with a diode I remember connecting between the two screw terminals on the back. The Ring Pro did not come with the diode and from what I can tell it's not needed for that product.

I have bought a 1N4001 diode just to have on hand since I no longer have the one that came with my original Ring. I'm not sure if it will be needed with the RCA but at the rate I've been changing doorbells lately maybe I'll need it in the future. I understand the purpose of it--it's meant to prevent interruption of power to the electronic chime when the button is pressed (so it will both ding and dong as opposed to just ding). Has anyone here with one of these Hikvision rebadges needed to use a diode with it?

The resistor thing is puzzling to me, as I've never had to use one on any of the other doorbells I've installed. Something tells me that if it were truly necessary then all of the various rebadges would have included it. I highly doubt the RCA version has any different hardware than the LaView. Can anyone explain what cases the resistor is needed?

I guess the only other potential wrinkle is that with the Ring Pro I installed that "Power Kit" doohickey at my chime. I don't think I really needed to since my transformer is newer and it's a short wiring run, but the instructions said to use it so I did. I've only recently figured out though that it's the cause of the noticeable delay between when the button is pressed and the chime sounds. My old Ring never did that and I assumed it was a Ring Pro quirk, but others have said it's the Power Kit that causes it. So hopefully with the RCA I can do away with that entirely.

Thanks for any input. I just want to try to make sure I have everything I need to get this working in my setup. With the demise of Radio Shack it's not really feasible to be able to just run out and buy a resistor on a Saturday.
 
4thmouse said:
For the diode, check out,
Clare Controls Knowledge Base

As far as resistor goes, there are 2 scenarios that come into play. Neither seem to apply to you.
1st is, if you have mechanical doorbell and get a hum, adding the resistor across the bell give it just little extra resistance to eliminate the hum.

2nd is if you don't use a door chime at all, the doorbell is designed to have a little resistance, so the resistor it there to take place of the bell.
Click to expand...

The resistance is usually provided by the lighted button
 
4thmouse said:
For the diode, check out,
Clare Controls Knowledge Base

As far as resistor goes, there are 2 scenarios that come into play. Neither seem to apply to you.
1st is, if you have mechanical doorbell and get a hum, adding the resistor across the bell give it just little extra resistance to eliminate the hum.

2nd is if you don't use a door chime at all, the doorbell is designed to have a little resistance, so the resistor it there to take place of the bell.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot 4thmouse. So the Clare comes with a diode, the LaView comes with a resistor and the RCA comes with neither? Haha I guess that makes sense considering the price I paid for the RCA. I almost bought the LaView when Newegg had it for $99 but I didn't want a logo so I waited for a deal on the RCA on ebay.

So it sounds like I will need that diode I bought after all, and won't need to worry about buying a resistor. Perfect. Thanks again!
 
Will do. Just checking out the extensive documentation/knowledge base on the Clare version of this doorbell--wow. Really impressive resource! I'm a little confused though as their "What's Included" document mentions a resistor but no diode, and yet the page you linked mentions that the diode is included. Maybe they only recently started including it.

But the other thing on that page that's sort of confusing is in the section on the resistor they mention the two scenarios you noted (when a chime is not being used, or to silence buzzing on a mechanical chime). But their wiring diagram shows it installed on a clearly identified digital chime. Do some digital chimes buzz too? Or did they just screw up the diagram?

Edit: Oops, this is the page I'm referring to: Clare Controls Knowledge Base
 
And then there's this page (Clare Controls Knowledge Base) that states "The ClareVision Plus Video Doorbell is factory ready for use in homes without chimes. When working without a chime, connect the doorbell directly to the transformer. No additional equipment is necessary." and has no mention of the resistor in the description or the wiring diagram. :confused:
 
bookemdano said:
Thanks a lot 4thmouse. So the Clare comes with a diode, the LaView comes with a resistor and the RCA comes with neither? Haha I guess that makes sense considering the price I paid for the RCA. I almost bought the LaView when Newegg had it for $99 but I didn't want a logo so I waited for a deal on the RCA on ebay.

So it sounds like I will need that diode I bought after all, and won't need to worry about buying a resistor. Perfect. Thanks again!
Click to expand...

My RCA version came with a resistor.
 
qfwfq said:
Anybody has a clarevision's wedge and not using it and wants to sell it?
Click to expand...

Second this. I am curious what it looks like. I was considering getting something basic 3D printed, but if anyone has it laying around I would love to take it off your hands.
 
greg_mitch said:
My RCA version came with a resistor.
Click to expand...

Does your documentation show it in the "What's included" section? Because mine (and the pdf I've found on the net) doesn't mention it at all. Maybe newer production runs are including it? Really odd though that it's not consistent (and not even consistent in the instructions. The LaView pdf tells you to wire it in series with one of the leads at the push button and the Clare site tells you to wire it between the Front and Transformer terminals on the chime. Incidentally, that's also where they tell you to wire the diode, whereas most doorbells indicate running it between the terminals of the pushbutton. Dunno, maybe both ways will work.
 
I bought one of the RCA version doorbells to tinker with. Doesn't meet my needs. Happy to pass along the deal I got if anyone wants it before I return it.

$90 shipped in the CONUS.

If interested - email me - mark.wahlert@gmail.com
 
bbp said:
A couple more questions. Would unhooking the chime help at all?

Or maybe a Ring with the plug in chime work better?

Thanks

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I think the combination of your electrical chime and the incorrect wire is causing your problem. There are some cheap mechanical chimes you can get on amazon (for about $20, they even include a transformer). I think the big box home improvement may have one for around the same price. The easiest fix for your wire would be to double up the connections that are running through the telephone wire your chime is now running on.
 
bookemdano said:
Does your documentation show it in the "What's included" section? Because mine (and the pdf I've found on the net) doesn't mention it at all. Maybe newer production runs are including it? Really odd though that it's not consistent (and not even consistent in the instructions. The LaView pdf tells you to wire it in series with one of the leads at the push button and the Clare site tells you to wire it between the Front and Transformer terminals on the chime. Incidentally, that's also where they tell you to wire the diode, whereas most doorbells indicate running it between the terminals of the pushbutton. Dunno, maybe both ways will work.
Click to expand...

I was wrong. I went back to look and there is no resistor in the included hardware bag. I must have been looking at the wire leads they included and mistook it when I opened it originally. Sorry about that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom