I have a similar setup, but using the Clare version. Just tried it and it still works for me, however I have the volume on the doorbell off until they change or give the ability to change the greeting and when it's not connected to the internet. If internet down, it'll announce that it can't connect to cloud.
Sweet! LTS is releasing an ONVIF compatible doorbell with SD card slot and 940nm IR
- Thread starter hook3m
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sfnetwork
Young grasshopper
Maybe possible by using SADP?
Didn’t try it, I also did a MAC reservation.
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Is the Hikvision NA-KB6013-WIP a significant hardware upgrade vs the current KB6003 model, or just a new outer shell?
Actually the Hik USA version is slightly different according to the specs. They show 30FPS for main stream and Sub stream as well as an IP65 weather rating. OEM models have 12FPS for both streams and an IP55 rating. Not much different but worth noting.
The only way, currently, to set a static IP on the doorbell is by MAC reservation. Guide attached for those who don't know how to do it.
sfnetwork
Young grasshopper
Actually interesting... The fact that this one clearly states it can do 30 FPS might indicate a better hardware or better Wifi (because there is no FPS mention in the specs for DS-KB6003-WIP). IP65 vs IP55 might also hint different hardware parts or seals...
my DS-KB6003-WIP works OK but it's slow responding ex when saving a setting, etc.. and the fact that recent firmware updates pushed the 12FPS limit on main stream (vs 22FPS) also hints a limit...
I would be very curious to see a review of this one...
We don't customize the firmware at all. It's Hikvisions OEM firmware which I believe all unbranded (LaView, Clare, LTS, Nelly's)doorbells take. Most likely the Hikvision USA "branded" doorbell will take a different firmware specific to it.
Nice Cliff Notes btw!
drachen
n3wb
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Hey there! New to the forums and this thread which has been an incredible source of information for these doorbells so thank you in advance to everyone who has contributed so far! I purchased the RCA version of this doorbell and have it wired in concert with an old school 1980s vintage Nutone long tube 8 note Winchester door chime (this one requires two wires from the transformer (TRANS and COM) along with the one doorbell input wire. I've already replaced my doorbell transformer with a new 24V 40VA Honeywell unit so power should be good.
The problem is that as soon as anyone presses the button on the doorbell, my mechanical doorchime goes into an endless loop where it is constantly chiming and the doorbell becomes unresponsive to the point that it never even reboots and only by shutting off power at the circuit breaker and disconnecting the front door bell input (and temporarily connecting it to the TRANS connector to complete the circuit) can I get it to stop and the doorbell to reboot. Strangely, just powering off the circuit breaker, waiting a minute and powering it back on starts my mechanical doorbell endlessly chiming again.
I suspect this may be a similar issue related to the smaller mechanical doorbells with regards to people reporting the plungers constantly moving and that a resistor in series might fix the issue, but was wondering if anyone had a similiar experience. I really would love to keep this beautiful mechanical doorbell if at all possible.
The problem is that as soon as anyone presses the button on the doorbell, my mechanical doorchime goes into an endless loop where it is constantly chiming and the doorbell becomes unresponsive to the point that it never even reboots and only by shutting off power at the circuit breaker and disconnecting the front door bell input (and temporarily connecting it to the TRANS connector to complete the circuit) can I get it to stop and the doorbell to reboot. Strangely, just powering off the circuit breaker, waiting a minute and powering it back on starts my mechanical doorbell endlessly chiming again.
I suspect this may be a similar issue related to the smaller mechanical doorbells with regards to people reporting the plungers constantly moving and that a resistor in series might fix the issue, but was wondering if anyone had a similiar experience. I really would love to keep this beautiful mechanical doorbell if at all possible.
The inline resistor may do the job, try a 12 Ohm 10W. I assume that the original transformer was 24VAC also, but if it was a 16VAC, then you may be pushing too much voltage to the chime, causing the motor to go too fast and blasts by the cut-off switch. If it is a multi-voltage transformer, then try it at 20AVC. Also, according to this video at around 51:30 () , there may be a "volume" (rheostat) control inside the chime that controls the amount of voltage going to the solenoids, you could try turning the "volume" down...but be very careful, as this guy states that you can't get replacement parts anymore.
Welcome to IPCamTalk @drachen. Most likely your transformer is the culprit causing your chime to continually go off, doorbell specs state 16VAC to 24VAC: 2018-04-24_0839
Here's one we've used with success: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019BW9VZ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?tag=ipctk-20&ie=UTF8&psc=1
Let us know how it goes.
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Through the app on your phone, EZViz website, or ivms-4200.
dmcwhinnie
n3wb
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does anyone have a wedge design than can be used in a 3d printer? I need to angle my door bell to get a better view
Shyam
Young grasshopper
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Thank! For some reason when I looked before I didn't see the option! But I just tried and works!
drachen
n3wb
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Thanks fellas. So the transformer I replaced it with was 24V (not multi-voltage unfortunately). The user manual for the Nutone does state to use a 16V 15w doorchime for best results (I believe the one I ripped out was around those specs but was too weak to even power the wifi doorbell).
With just a normal push button on the front the Nutone acts normal with the 24V transformer, but I will definitely look at that possibility if the inline resistor does not work.
I have an August chime board coming (should perform the same function as the inline resistor as far as I know) so we'll see how that goes.
Will keep you guys posted.
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drachen
n3wb
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A previous post in this thread indicated that this one (originally designed for the ring) works with this camera. I have the same issue and ordered it, will be fitting this weekend:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075WNZT8P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I'm looking forward to hearing how the wedge worked out for you.
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drachen
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So it does work, albeit the wedge (and consequently the Ring doorbell) is a tad shorter than this one. What I ended up doing is using the screw hole at the top of the top of the wedge lined up with the top screw mount on the doorbell and the original hardware.
The bottom screw goes straight from the doorbell into the wall.
Ultimately it does the job.