Sweet! LTS is releasing an ONVIF compatible doorbell with SD card slot and 940nm IR

codyst said:
I have no problem getting notifications while recording in Blue Iris but my chime stopped working and my phone no longer rings when the button is pressed.
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I have a similar setup, but using the Clare version. Just tried it and it still works for me, however I have the volume on the doorbell off until they change or give the ability to change the greeting and when it's not connected to the internet. If internet down, it'll announce that it can't connect to cloud.
 
Does anybody know how to fix the IP address? I can set up Mac filtering but would prefer not to.

Thank you
 
4thmouse said:
Interesting, But if that's correct specs are identical. I can't seem to find it on Hikvisions site.

@edit, Found it and specs are identical, I think this is the same thing just cosmetically different for the U.S. version.
Wi-Fi Doorbell | Hikvision USA | The world’s largest video surveillance manufacturer
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Actually the Hik USA version is slightly different according to the specs. They show 30FPS for main stream and Sub stream as well as an IP65 weather rating. OEM models have 12FPS for both streams and an IP55 rating. Not much different but worth noting.
 
Gr8hifi said:
Does anybody know how to fix the IP address? I can set up Mac filtering but would prefer not to.

Thank you
Click to expand...

sfnetwork said:
Maybe possible by using SAP?
Didn’t try it, I also did a MAC reservation.
Click to expand...

The only way, currently, to set a static IP on the doorbell is by MAC reservation. Guide attached for those who don't know how to do it.
 

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RyanODan said:
Actually the Hik USA version is slightly different according to the specs. They show 30FPS for main stream and Sub stream as well as an IP65 weather rating. OEM models have 12FPS for both streams and an IP55 rating. Not much different but worth noting.
Click to expand...
Actually interesting... The fact that this one clearly states it can do 30 FPS might indicate a better hardware or better Wifi (because there is no FPS mention in the specs for DS-KB6003-WIP). IP65 vs IP55 might also hint different hardware parts or seals...
my DS-KB6003-WIP works OK but it's slow responding ex when saving a setting, etc.. and the fact that recent firmware updates pushed the 12FPS limit on main stream (vs 22FPS) also hints a limit...
I would be very curious to see a review of this one...
 
giomania said:
It seems the only one (that seems to indicate they are) customizing firmware is Nelly’s, if memory serves. I have been following the threads since the beginning and have a couple of summary pages on these HikVision clone doorbell cams in the Cliff Notes.

IPCamTalk Cliff Notes 2018-04.docx



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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We don't customize the firmware at all. It's Hikvisions OEM firmware which I believe all unbranded (LaView, Clare, LTS, Nelly's)doorbells take. Most likely the Hikvision USA "branded" doorbell will take a different firmware specific to it.

Nice Cliff Notes btw!
 
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Hey there! New to the forums and this thread which has been an incredible source of information for these doorbells so thank you in advance to everyone who has contributed so far! I purchased the RCA version of this doorbell and have it wired in concert with an old school 1980s vintage Nutone long tube 8 note Winchester door chime (this one requires two wires from the transformer (TRANS and COM) along with the one doorbell input wire. I've already replaced my doorbell transformer with a new 24V 40VA Honeywell unit so power should be good.

The problem is that as soon as anyone presses the button on the doorbell, my mechanical doorchime goes into an endless loop where it is constantly chiming and the doorbell becomes unresponsive to the point that it never even reboots and only by shutting off power at the circuit breaker and disconnecting the front door bell input (and temporarily connecting it to the TRANS connector to complete the circuit) can I get it to stop and the doorbell to reboot. Strangely, just powering off the circuit breaker, waiting a minute and powering it back on starts my mechanical doorbell endlessly chiming again.

I suspect this may be a similar issue related to the smaller mechanical doorbells with regards to people reporting the plungers constantly moving and that a resistor in series might fix the issue, but was wondering if anyone had a similiar experience. I really would love to keep this beautiful mechanical doorbell if at all possible.
 
drachen said:
Hey there! New to the forums and this thread which has been an incredible source of information for these doorbells so thank you in advance to everyone who has contributed so far! I purchased the RCA version of this doorbell and have it wired in concert with an old school 1980s vintage Nutone long tube 8 note Winchester door chime (this one requires two wires from the transformer (TRANS and COM) along with the one doorbell input wire. I've already replaced my doorbell transformer with a new 24V 40VA Honeywell unit so power should be good.

The problem is that as soon as anyone presses the button on the doorbell, my mechanical doorchime goes into an endless loop where it is constantly chiming and the doorbell becomes unresponsive to the point that it never even reboots and only by shutting off power at the circuit breaker and disconnecting the front door bell input (and temporarily connecting it to the TRANS connector to complete the circuit) can I get it to stop and the doorbell to reboot. Strangely, just powering off the circuit breaker, waiting a minute and powering it back on starts my mechanical doorbell endlessly chiming again.

I suspect this may be a similar issue related to the smaller mechanical doorbells with regards to people reporting the plungers constantly moving and that a resistor in series might fix the issue, but was wondering if anyone had a similiar experience. I really would love to keep this beautiful mechanical doorbell if at all possible.
Click to expand...

The inline resistor may do the job, try a 12 Ohm 10W. I assume that the original transformer was 24VAC also, but if it was a 16VAC, then you may be pushing too much voltage to the chime, causing the motor to go too fast and blasts by the cut-off switch. If it is a multi-voltage transformer, then try it at 20AVC. Also, according to this video at around 51:30 () , there may be a "volume" (rheostat) control inside the chime that controls the amount of voltage going to the solenoids, you could try turning the "volume" down...but be very careful, as this guy states that you can't get replacement parts anymore.
 
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drachen said:
Hey there! New to the forums and this thread which has been an incredible source of information for these doorbells so thank you in advance to everyone who has contributed so far! I purchased the RCA version of this doorbell and have it wired in concert with an old school 1980s vintage Nutone long tube 8 note Winchester door chime (this one requires two wires from the transformer (TRANS and COM) along with the one doorbell input wire. I've already replaced my doorbell transformer with a new 24V 40VA Honeywell unit so power should be good.

The problem is that as soon as anyone presses the button on the doorbell, my mechanical doorchime goes into an endless loop where it is constantly chiming and the doorbell becomes unresponsive to the point that it never even reboots and only by shutting off power at the circuit breaker and disconnecting the front door bell input (and temporarily connecting it to the TRANS connector to complete the circuit) can I get it to stop and the doorbell to reboot. Strangely, just powering off the circuit breaker, waiting a minute and powering it back on starts my mechanical doorbell endlessly chiming again.

I suspect this may be a similar issue related to the smaller mechanical doorbells with regards to people reporting the plungers constantly moving and that a resistor in series might fix the issue, but was wondering if anyone had a similiar experience. I really would love to keep this beautiful mechanical doorbell if at all possible.
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Welcome to IPCamTalk @drachen. Most likely your transformer is the culprit causing your chime to continually go off, doorbell specs state 16VAC to 24VAC: 2018-04-24_0839

Here's one we've used with success: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...detailpage_o01_s00?tag=ipctk-20&ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let us know how it goes.
 
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does anyone have a wedge design than can be used in a 3d printer? I need to angle my door bell to get a better view
 
RyanODan said:
Welcome to IPCamTalk @drachen. Most likely your transformer is the culprit causing your chime to continually go off, doorbell specs state 16VAC to 24VAC: 2018-04-24_0839

Here's one we've used with success: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...detailpage_o01_s00?tag=ipctk-20&ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let us know how it goes.
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Thanks fellas. So the transformer I replaced it with was 24V (not multi-voltage unfortunately). The user manual for the Nutone does state to use a 16V 15w doorchime for best results (I believe the one I ripped out was around those specs but was too weak to even power the wifi doorbell).

With just a normal push button on the front the Nutone acts normal with the 24V transformer, but I will definitely look at that possibility if the inline resistor does not work.

I have an August chime board coming (should perform the same function as the inline resistor as far as I know) so we'll see how that goes.

Will keep you guys posted.
 
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RyanODan said:
I'm looking forward to hearing how the wedge worked out for you.
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So it does work, albeit the wedge (and consequently the Ring doorbell) is a tad shorter than this one. What I ended up doing is using the screw hole at the top of the top of the wedge lined up with the top screw mount on the doorbell and the original hardware.

The bottom screw goes straight from the doorbell into the wall.

Ultimately it does the job.
 
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