What is that?
I'd like to get a couple of wireless cameras out in the yard down by a lakefront where I have power, ( a better take on a game camera for example), but can't run 500 ft + buried cat cable.
Would something like this offer me a solution to be able to get a solid WiFi signal and video transfer back to the house?
nayr
IPCT Contributor
this x2 to create a point to point bridge (aka backhaul), requires line of sight: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-LOCOM5-NanoStation-loco-M5/dp/B004EHSV4W/
id get another 2.4G omni access point like the Ubiquiti PicoStation for the lakefront so you got good wifi while fishin
id get another 2.4G omni access point like the Ubiquiti PicoStation for the lakefront so you got good wifi while fishin
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I have a standard 120v ac outlet at the lakefront branched off electric for a pump for the sprinkler system so Ican plug in a camera for power there.
I have line of site to the house...(not necessarily the wireless router though which is located in a room on the other side of the house.)
I have line of site to the house...(not necessarily the wireless router though which is located in a room on the other side of the house.)
nayr
IPCT Contributor
those create a directional bridge on 5GHz band and leave your wireless network alone, so run a wire to the side of the house that can see the boathouse..
"Boathouse", hah that would be nice.
Just a 13 foot row boat w a trolling motor in the grass...but would still like to catch whoever took the boat out for a free ride last year, or get a Tigger the next time a beaver tries to shew down another tree at the lake...could also use the ptz for a full look back at the house to catch people trespassing to fish.
So sounds like this Ubiquiti loco you recommended might be a good solution.
I'm assuming it is waterproof.
Just a 13 foot row boat w a trolling motor in the grass...but would still like to catch whoever took the boat out for a free ride last year, or get a Tigger the next time a beaver tries to shew down another tree at the lake...could also use the ptz for a full look back at the house to catch people trespassing to fish.
So sounds like this Ubiquiti loco you recommended might be a good solution.
I'm assuming it is waterproof.
or try a couple of powerline adapters. they can work pretty well on a leg that doesn't run thru your fusebox.
example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222039612996
there's even onesthat have wi-fi on one end...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291580989644
example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222039612996
there's even onesthat have wi-fi on one end...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291580989644
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Thx I use a couple of those IN the house but not sure they are weatherproof for outdoor use.
The outlet is basically exposed on a post.
The outlet is basically exposed on a post.
nayr
IPCT Contributor
yeah they last forever outside in the sun, sorry my brain farted last week I was helping a guy with a boathouse heh.. but yeah catching poachers is a good reason for a remote PTZ.. how tall is your post?
Very short...maybe 3 ft...was orig just for mounting the outlet off the pump.
So..I have a powerline adapter already in use near the rear window...wondering if I plug 1loco into that...stick it in the window which is line of site to the lake post...then plug the other in there and a poe ptz into that and all is good to see it though my network..then control w something like BI...that basically how it could work in theory or am I not getting it right?
So..I have a powerline adapter already in use near the rear window...wondering if I plug 1loco into that...stick it in the window which is line of site to the lake post...then plug the other in there and a poe ptz into that and all is good to see it though my network..then control w something like BI...that basically how it could work in theory or am I not getting it right?
nayr
IPCT Contributor
should work in theory.. you might see if you can bolt another pole/post to your existing one and get your cam/wifi up a bit higher, out of reach of humans and mowers.. you'll probably get a better view on your camera too.. just the grass around our ponds was rarely under 3ft tall heh.
or you can put another post 3ft high right next to that one with a 3rd one hinged and pinned in the middle, like birdhouses are setup.. makes it easy to work on as you can tilt the mast down to the ground... basically this on a smaller 8-10ft scale: http://wiki.radioreference.com/index.php/Tilt-Over_Mast
then you can put a light on it for some night fishin, light attract bugs and trains the fish
or you can put another post 3ft high right next to that one with a 3rd one hinged and pinned in the middle, like birdhouses are setup.. makes it easy to work on as you can tilt the mast down to the ground... basically this on a smaller 8-10ft scale: http://wiki.radioreference.com/index.php/Tilt-Over_Mast
then you can put a light on it for some night fishin, light attract bugs and trains the fish
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Thanks for your help on the License plate camera. It is much better. The photo shows how we get around the extension cord issue. There are two hikvision cameras mounted to back of panel and that is a nano station antenna to send video back to blue iris server.
Sweet, I'm going to try that out then eventually..(still have no setup at all yet...in the research phase here...also still trying to decide on maybe LTS NVR route or going BI as those are realistically the options within my skill set...reading a lot of posts here on that topic....as usual, not so cut and dry.)
Let me ask about "line of site"...Technically I have line of site to the area in question at the moment (winter, no leaves)...BUT I have a big willow tree right in the way once it leafs out. Will that be an issue or is it not substantial enough to block a signal?
Here is a pic of the post with outlet and a pic from the house pointing out the post on the other side of the tree unseen.
Thanks for the examples...sorry for getting the thread a little off track.
...on another off track comment, I can use all the fishing tips I can get...We'd starve if we had to rely on my fishing skills. I haven't caught a newsworthy big bass in here for a few years.
Let me ask about "line of site"...Technically I have line of site to the area in question at the moment (winter, no leaves)...BUT I have a big willow tree right in the way once it leafs out. Will that be an issue or is it not substantial enough to block a signal?
Here is a pic of the post with outlet and a pic from the house pointing out the post on the other side of the tree unseen.
Thanks for the examples...sorry for getting the thread a little off track.
...on another off track comment, I can use all the fishing tips I can get...We'd starve if we had to rely on my fishing skills. I haven't caught a newsworthy big bass in here for a few years.
@klasipca, at first i didn't notice, but now i do notice that at night, my v2 ptz goes out-of-focus.
I have changed the setting to fully auto from semi, and the night-time blurriness seems just as bad.
I may need to go to manual and find some way to switch from day to night focus settings,
perhaps setting to different presets and switching presets at day/night transition.
IR light being at slightly diff wavelength than the visible spectrum, refracts slightly differently and
that needs to be considered when designing the lens, as explained here:
http://www.cctvco.com/understanding-ir-security-cameras.html
"Focus shift" happens when a camera is focused using visible light, and is then used at night (in IR mode) without adjusting the lens. The IR light-only image will appear slightly fuzzy if the camera lens is not adjusted. This is because IR light, being a different wavelength than visible light, strikes and travels through the lens slightly differently than visible light (which was used to originally focus the camera). To bring an IR light-only image into focus an adjustment must be made manually if a spherical lens is used. Obviously this is a
problem if the camera is in a remote location or on the ceiling where you can't reach it without a ladder. An aspherical lens, by virtue of it's non-perfect-sphere shape, is able to refocus IR light automatically.
do you think the focus issues are due to poor lens design? or poor firmware control over focus?
I have changed the setting to fully auto from semi, and the night-time blurriness seems just as bad.
I may need to go to manual and find some way to switch from day to night focus settings,
perhaps setting to different presets and switching presets at day/night transition.
IR light being at slightly diff wavelength than the visible spectrum, refracts slightly differently and
that needs to be considered when designing the lens, as explained here:
http://www.cctvco.com/understanding-ir-security-cameras.html
"Focus shift" happens when a camera is focused using visible light, and is then used at night (in IR mode) without adjusting the lens. The IR light-only image will appear slightly fuzzy if the camera lens is not adjusted. This is because IR light, being a different wavelength than visible light, strikes and travels through the lens slightly differently than visible light (which was used to originally focus the camera). To bring an IR light-only image into focus an adjustment must be made manually if a spherical lens is used. Obviously this is a
problem if the camera is in a remote location or on the ceiling where you can't reach it without a ladder. An aspherical lens, by virtue of it's non-perfect-sphere shape, is able to refocus IR light automatically.
do you think the focus issues are due to poor lens design? or poor firmware control over focus?
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alastairstevenson
Staff member
Isn't focus shift with IR just a problem with a fixed-focus lens system as opposed to a camera that has to establish a slightly different focus at each and every zoom point anyway?
The problem will be with the way in which the correct focus point is assessed, it's auto-focus.
As we know with DSLR cameras, and point-and-shoot cameras, there have been multiple ways devised for electronically determining a focus position, with arguments on both sides which works best, or fastest.
The aspect that mostly affects change in focus from visible to IR is chromatic aberration, the way that the refractive index of the lens material changes with wavelength when a single material is used.
The most common correction for this is to use multi-layer and multiple lenses of slightly differing materials.
Even the cheap camera lenses in IP cameras are multi-layered.
The better it works, the better the focus, the more precise and complex the manufacturing process must be. So it's the usual tradeoff between cost and performance.
That's why for HD cameras with their finer resolution you do need a better lens so that the lens does not become the limiting factor on image quality.
The problem will be with the way in which the correct focus point is assessed, it's auto-focus.
As we know with DSLR cameras, and point-and-shoot cameras, there have been multiple ways devised for electronically determining a focus position, with arguments on both sides which works best, or fastest.
Precisely aspherical is how a lens should ideally be in order to be able to focus to a single point. Spherical lenses are an easy low-cost manufacturing method which compromises the fine focus. Fine on a low-res camera.
The aspect that mostly affects change in focus from visible to IR is chromatic aberration, the way that the refractive index of the lens material changes with wavelength when a single material is used.
The most common correction for this is to use multi-layer and multiple lenses of slightly differing materials.
Even the cheap camera lenses in IP cameras are multi-layered.
The better it works, the better the focus, the more precise and complex the manufacturing process must be. So it's the usual tradeoff between cost and performance.
That's why for HD cameras with their finer resolution you do need a better lens so that the lens does not become the limiting factor on image quality.
I finally found the setting to keep the IR on always, and that seems to have cleared up the fuzziness that was occurring when the camera switched to day mode. I guess the only disadvantage is the camera stays in black and white, but for plate capture it is fine. Thanks again for all the info provided in this forum.
Has anyone got OpenALPR working with the Huisun?
If so - what are you using for the Video Stream Settings
Which Camera - Generic?
Full address for the stream?
I keep getting a 'time out' when testing
If so - what are you using for the Video Stream Settings
Which Camera - Generic?
Full address for the stream?
I keep getting a 'time out' when testing
nayr
IPCT Contributor
OpenALPR wont work with the Huisun feed directly, it requires a MJPEG stream and you only have an x264 stream avilable.. If you have BI or a NVR that can transcode you a MJPEG stream that would work, but it'll decrease video quality and increase system load on your NVR.
You have to buy a commercial license for OpenALPR before it'll take an x264 stream..
You have to buy a commercial license for OpenALPR before it'll take an x264 stream..